Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my bro to wash my car today, and now i notice light scratches especially all over the bonnet when the sun is reflecting off it. Pretty sure it wasnt like this before. He didnt use my normal foam sponges as i left them at my girlfriends, he used my dads ones. I think they are f**ked.

I just tried to rub some maguires scratch x over the bonnet with a terry towel clothe but it made no difference (it never seems to do anything to anything!). Help!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124540-light-scratches-from-wash/
Share on other sites

You probably won't get them out by hand polishing, but if you do its gonna take you a very long time.

Supercheap have a $20 orbital polisher on sale atm (atleast in WA they do) which will do wonders. If you use that with a fine cutting compound they should disapeer. You may need to go over the really bad areas twice.

Finish it off with a decent wax and buff :whistling:

Basically, scratch x won't fix it. When I first bought my car, I didn't really know what was good and what wasn't, so I wasted about 500$ trying almost every product at the car store.

I found scratch x to be more like a bandaid. It sort of fills the scratches a bit to restore optical consistency. You can achieve a similar result by waxing it. It'll make the scratches a lot less evident.

If you want to 'fix' it, the only way it can be done is to 'cut'. That will take off some of the clear coat so it is level again.

Basically, the clear coat is moderately thick. So one light cut won't kill it.

BUT, I would try and avoid scratching it too many times, becuase repeated cutting is no good

Basically, scratch x won't fix it. When I first bought my car, I didn't really know what was good and what wasn't, so I wasted about 500$ trying almost every product at the car store.

I found scratch x to be more like a bandaid. It sort of fills the scratches a bit to restore optical consistency. You can achieve a similar result by waxing it. It'll make the scratches a lot less evident.

If you want to 'fix' it, the only way it can be done is to 'cut'. That will take off some of the clear coat so it is level again.

Basically, the clear coat is moderately thick. So one light cut won't kill it.

BUT, I would try and avoid scratching it too many times, becuase repeated cutting is no good

Thanks for the advice guys. I picked up at orbital polisher for $50 at supercheap today and some macguiers swirl remover 2.0 which does light cutting too so hopefully using this stuff will work out alright.

Got any advice in method to use the orbital? ie how much mixture to apply, how long to spend on a certain

area etc..

Also, whats good wax/polish to do once i've finished with the swirl remover?

Thanks for the advice guys. I picked up at orbital polisher for $50 at supercheap today and some macguiers swirl remover 2.0 which does light cutting too so hopefully using this stuff will work out alright.

Got any advice in method to use the orbital? ie how much mixture to apply, how long to spend on a certain

area etc..

Also, whats good wax/polish to do once i've finished with the swirl remover?

Give this a read - http://www.waxit.com.au/howto.asp?howto=7

Just go slowly and don't use too much polish. It should be an even haze, don't use too much or it will be a bitch to rub off (even with the polisher). If some areas are really bad just spend a little more time on them with the polisher, you should only need to go around the car once... twice if its really bad.

Meguires yellow wax is pretty good. A good canuba one will make it nice and shiny, just read the back of them and make sure you can use them with the polisher. Let the wax sit for 20 mins or so (or out in the sun if its not raining) and then rub it off.

Your not the same guy that posted this on OCAU are you?

You might wanna read through the 'Consolidated car detailing thread' for heaps of tips

I sure am, had a fit when SAU was down and wanted to know what to do. :) First time i've been on OCAU for as far back as i can remember.

This consolidated thread.... i didnt notice it here or OCAU, i did briefly look for something of that effect. Where is it?

Edited by Xizor
I sure am, had a fit when SAU was down and wanted to know what to do. :)

This consolidated thread.... i didnt notice it here or OCAU, i did briefly look for something of that effect. Where is it?

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...d+car+detailing

There ya go

Ok, What they said above about the polishing is correct.

A haze is what you want. If you put more on, you'll just end up killing yourself buffing it off. If you want it thicker, do it twice instead. Trust me on that one.

Try it on a small spot if you want and put lots on, it'll cake up.

BUT

cutting is a total different story. Because the orbital buffer pad is so big, you don't want to leave any of it dry. Don't be scared and cheap not to use enough of the solution, otherwise you'll burn your paint or swirl it more.

Apply generously so the whole pad has stuff on it.

I dunno what orbital buffer you bought, but there are different ones. There are ones that just spin, and there are ones that vibrate. Doens't make a difference really. Some spin faster, some slower.

WHATEVER YOU DO, make sure you don't push down hard!!!! You will scratch the shit out of the paint. Let the machine do its work.

It will cut very quickly. make sure you keep it moving. don't leave it on one spot for obvious reasons.

hope that was helpful. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.

If you have another car you can try it on first, I suggest you do so. maybe if one of your family members has an r32 or something, rip that one up.

cheers

Edited by MANWHOR3

Nah no point trying it any other car we got, not worth it. I'll just try and be careful. The orbital buffer i bought is 240mm in diameter... big puppy.

With regard to wipping the product off before waxing, do i wait until i've done the whole car or wipe it off each time i finish a section?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...