Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

just wondering if anyone had any enligtenment on fitting an air fuel ratio guage to there r33 skyline. Mine has a 3 wire oxygen sensor and using resistance checks ive found the power and earth so ive hooked up the guage to the remaining wire that goes to the ecu but the guage doesnt register anything. has anyone else had this problem?

One possiblity i just thought of was i have wired up the guage to the oxygen sensor on the dump pipe. do the guages have to be wired up to an oxygen sensor further down the exhuast after the cat?

your input would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124584-help-with-af-guage/
Share on other sites

I can tell you definately that the sensor further down, in the cat is the heat-sensor, which lights up on your dash if it gets too hot.

Otherwise, where did you get power and earth from?

You should get power from an ignition wire, so it's on when the car is on, and ground from the chassis (a clean spot).

Make sure you have that right first... most of those displays will light up without it connected to the ECU wire. (on fully lean)

Once the power is 100%, then yeah, i'm pretty sure you want the single sensor wire that goes to the ECU. Mine has two black ones, which are for the heater part of the sensor, and the third is the voltage/signal wire.

i think ive confused you a little. the guage is a three wire being a power earth and sensor wire. i've got the power and earth setup on the guage it lights up and everything. the oxygen sensor itself is also a 3 wire and according to the instruction manual that came with the guage it says on 3 wire oxygen sensors power is delivered through one and grounded on a second wire with the third wire being a sensor wire to the ecu. when i unpluged the oxygen sensor i found two terminals were connected so it must of been the power and earth terminals leaving the remaining terminal to theoretically be connected to the ecu which is the one i taped into. so as far as i know i'ts all been wired up correctly but i dont think theres enough voltage being passed through the sensor wire for the guage to register a reading

No no, I understood you. =-]

But i'll try and make myself a bit clearer... The wire that you used on the 02 sensor... i don't think there is a positive and negative on it. The two same-coloured wires (white? or black? can't remember) are for the heater element in the sensor. This leaves one wire of a different colour to the other two.... that is your sensor wire. I'm suggesting that you check that you have tapped into that uniquely-coloured wire for the guage.

The sensors range from 0 to 1 volt, so if it's hooked up correctly and you still get nothing, then get a multimeter onto that sensor wire and make sure your sensor is actually working. =-]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...