Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

just wondering if anyone had any enligtenment on fitting an air fuel ratio guage to there r33 skyline. Mine has a 3 wire oxygen sensor and using resistance checks ive found the power and earth so ive hooked up the guage to the remaining wire that goes to the ecu but the guage doesnt register anything. has anyone else had this problem?

One possiblity i just thought of was i have wired up the guage to the oxygen sensor on the dump pipe. do the guages have to be wired up to an oxygen sensor further down the exhuast after the cat?

your input would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124584-help-with-af-guage/
Share on other sites

I can tell you definately that the sensor further down, in the cat is the heat-sensor, which lights up on your dash if it gets too hot.

Otherwise, where did you get power and earth from?

You should get power from an ignition wire, so it's on when the car is on, and ground from the chassis (a clean spot).

Make sure you have that right first... most of those displays will light up without it connected to the ECU wire. (on fully lean)

Once the power is 100%, then yeah, i'm pretty sure you want the single sensor wire that goes to the ECU. Mine has two black ones, which are for the heater part of the sensor, and the third is the voltage/signal wire.

i think ive confused you a little. the guage is a three wire being a power earth and sensor wire. i've got the power and earth setup on the guage it lights up and everything. the oxygen sensor itself is also a 3 wire and according to the instruction manual that came with the guage it says on 3 wire oxygen sensors power is delivered through one and grounded on a second wire with the third wire being a sensor wire to the ecu. when i unpluged the oxygen sensor i found two terminals were connected so it must of been the power and earth terminals leaving the remaining terminal to theoretically be connected to the ecu which is the one i taped into. so as far as i know i'ts all been wired up correctly but i dont think theres enough voltage being passed through the sensor wire for the guage to register a reading

No no, I understood you. =-]

But i'll try and make myself a bit clearer... The wire that you used on the 02 sensor... i don't think there is a positive and negative on it. The two same-coloured wires (white? or black? can't remember) are for the heater element in the sensor. This leaves one wire of a different colour to the other two.... that is your sensor wire. I'm suggesting that you check that you have tapped into that uniquely-coloured wire for the guage.

The sensors range from 0 to 1 volt, so if it's hooked up correctly and you still get nothing, then get a multimeter onto that sensor wire and make sure your sensor is actually working. =-]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...