Jump to content
SAU Community

I'm A Total Idiot. Did I Kill My Engine?

MANWHOR3

By MANWHOR3,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

Ok, to cut a long story short, i'm normally very careful. But for some reason, tonight, I wasn't thinking straight.

I did an oil change, and I forgot to put the oil cap back on. I went for a drive, and the care kept almost stalling on idle. I drove about 10 minutes, then pulled over. realised the cap wasn't on, put it on, then drove home.

I didn't drive hard. never over 3k rpm. Not much boost, maybe 2 psi or something. The whole time, the oil pressure guage was still between 2-4.

Now, I lost maybe about 300ml of oil or so, but that's not my main concern. Basically, it was still above the low on the dipstick.

What I am concerned about, is whether having the cap open meant that there was no oil pressure and that I might have kileld the engine. Is it likely to be ok?

Also, why does it want to stall if the cap is open?

cheers guys.... hope the news is good.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

No problem, oil pressure is made by oil pump. Just a bit of mess from a little oil.

It stalls due to the way the crank case ventilation works with the intake, vacuum system, so more air getting into vacuum system (eg oil cap off) without fuel to compensate will cause engine to stall?, as well as idle control going WTF is all this extra air after throttle body.

barnoon Experienced

barnoon

Posted
Posted

Yeah it should be fine just put some more oil in her and give the engine a degrease to get rid of all that oil, done this once before in my old S13 all it did was make a real bad mess, put more oil in put the cap back on went down to the carwash and hosed all the oil off and all was fine :whistling:

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Was in a rush.. asked for a top right positive battery.

Got home, threw it in the car, threw on the positive, as the negative clamp touched the terminal it sparked and instantly popped the 75amp main fuse ($33 suckers), 10amp incar fuse and chances are my powerfc as now there's no relay click and no display on the pfc h/c

The bastard is it was a cheap battery to get me by while I send the old battery off for warranty, the cheap battery has very difficult to see + and - signs, unlike the old battery that has a clear RED marking under the positive side.

Well enough excuses I 100% completely stuffed up badly and should have checked.

The PFC appears to look and smell fine inside but pin 57 does appear to have a cut in a trace that runs from it, IF this done by AP Engineering or not I don't know, by eye it looks like a precision cut, by camera in macro mode I think it looks like its blown but not burnt, if thats possible.

Hows that for a I'M A TOTAL IDIOT story. :whistling:

As a result I'm now researching in to this.....

post-382-1151758892.gif

An RB25 PFC will be going in if this R32 item is buggered.

  • 3 weeks later...
MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't understand what you did wrong cubes?

Was it just that sparking when you connected the negative terminal onto the negative?

whenever I disconnect the battery and reconnect it on any car it always seems to spark.

Or am I missing something and did you actually connect it the wrong way?

Is there anyway to avoid the sparking?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

In short.

New battery, asked for top right positive, didn't double check, was in a rush, connected negative lead to positive, grabbed positive lead went to connect to negative battery, it touched sparked, 75amp fuse made a loud pop, 10amp fuse under dash popped multiple resistors and a couple of capacitors crapped them selves within the ecu.

It was a cheap battery (mines in for warranty) so there were no colour markings and the slight + - markings are so damn hard to see its not funny, especially at dusk which is when I dropped the battery in.

So yes something so simple yet so so stupid. lmao.. I was lucky. :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...