Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As topic states guys and girls i'm after some input on turbo's set-up for my build in progress rb26/30 in my 32 gtr.

Twin high mount Garrett GT3071R or Twin lowmount Garrett GT2860R (GT-RS equivalent)

Quick rundown on engine specs

rb30 bottom end

head ported, inlet port re-profiled

Forged pistons standard bore

Argo Rods

ARP rod bolts

Tomei headgasket

JUN 264 in 272 ex 10.5mm lift cams

JUN springs

Tomei cam gears

800cc or 1000cc injectors (dependant on turbo pick)

SX external fuel pump

CR of 8.5:1

The car will be set-up for track work BUT i want to run a 10 sec 1/4 pass. I aslo dont want to run anymore than 2bar boost (hit me here with advice also please) to obtain a power figure of 700awhp. I dont want it to be a lag monster, as for the track it'll need to be responsive as possible.

So can i get some for and against on these turbo's and maybe other turbo's i could perhaps go for. Any input would be very helpful and general discussion welcome.

Once again i'll say thanks in advance :P

cheers

Shane

boost is irrelvant, choose a suitable compressor based off compressor maps to get you the airflow you need. have you chosen largeish twins for reason? why not a big single, it could simplify stuff a bit and make it a nicer package possibly

first thing is i cant 100% read compressor maps confidently enough to go yep that ones for me

i was thinking keeping the twins for the responsiveness and also the larger twins for the higher power output, rather the big single being laggy and not being able to produce as much power up top as 'larger' twins. hit me on your thoughts of this

howstuff works or google on how to read compressor maps. work out how much airflow you need to make your power target and then simply pick a compressor wheel combo that suits that output and its efficency should be spot on. takes out the guess work.

well you can get a big single, one amount of rotating mass, interia, friction

also oil, water, ball bearing

or

two smaller twins, two amonuts of rotating mass, twice the interia needed, twice as much friction and heat loss. you wouldnt want plain bearing twins as it would preform worse than a ball bearing single

i dont see how a large single vs twins would vary much in terms of lag.

as long as you did your homework on the compressor maps and made sure it was spot on, i dont see how it would be more or less laggy, if anything i could only see big single as being better

alrite, i did a search on google and found a site about maps and how to read them.

1 question. in working out the cfm, the formula i use is (enginecapacity in cubic inch/1728) X (RPM/2) ?

so in my case its (91.536/1728) X (8000/2) = 211.89 cfm

as per this site http://www.automotivearticles.com/Turbo_Selection.shtml

In my inexperienced opinion single and a TO4Z can do the gas flow numbers . GT3071R's will only fit with HKS exhaust housings as these are the only T28 flanged GT30 housings I know of available . The "WG" version of the GT3071R is a dog so fit at your own risk .

TO4Z's are handy because there are so many exhaust housings options out there ie T3 and T4 flange and single or split entry . I've seen a huge range of AR ratios ie from .32 up to I think 1.6x so very tunable . Its TO4R compressor is said to be very resistant to surge which is good if you need small AR turbine housings . You can buy HKS exhaust housings for them in T4/TA45 flange and probably fair to assume these are the most highly developed housings for the old P trim turbine in a performance petrol application . They are more compact than Garretts agricultural T4 truck type housings .

I believe Cruiseliner has the HKS version so his opinion would tell the story .

Cheers A .

There is no way in the world im going to pay the HKS tag price for a turbo, so its Garrett for me.

I was up til 1 this morning trying to figure out which turbo/turbos would be for me lol

Paul, do you know how to read the maps and work out flow rates? If you do can i grab an email or msn caus i have a few more questions.

have a search on discopotato03's posts he has explained it a few times im pretty sure on how to read compressor maps and choose ideal flow for a given engine and turbo setup. make sure you set the search to his username only and you should find what you need. i can pm you my msn login but i dont know how to read compressor maps nor do i understand the full merits behind all the info, i just know if you read them you can basically pick what compressor combo you need make the power

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...