Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the stock R32 GTS-T intercooler is not the most efficient intercooler due to its design, size and position, but it'll do the job with the factory turbo pushing 10-12psi, although ideally you'll be doing the engine and turbo a favour by upgrading to a decent front mounted unit.

if you are looking at eventually modifying your car for more performance, i'd recommend you upgrade your intercooler so that should give you an idea of how good they are.

cheers.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by broken

hey, i run about 14psi through my stock turbo and cooler and it runs fine.

it has been on the dyno and it doesn't lean out or detonate.  

btw my car hit 27 psi on the dyno by mistake (for about 2 secs) and the turbo is still holding together 6 months later.

do u realise that if u run 12psi instead of 14psi through the stock cooler u would have more power?

When I had a R32 GTst I ran 14.7 psi all day long no probs. Was on dyno too and the mixtures were fine.

Wouldnt go any higher though. Its not the engine thats not capable. Its the Turbos that shit itself.

To answer your question 12 psi is perfectly safe . Dont worry :D

Hi guys, there are two problems with the standard turbo, both centred around the ceramic exhaust turbine.

Firstly, being ceramic the turbine is sweated/bonded onto the common shaft and therefore it does not like too much resistance ie; the exhaust is pushing the turbine while the compressor is trying to move air into the engine. Too much resistance (boost) and the turbine and the shaft part company. This seems to be the only one people talk about, but.............

The second problem is one of heat, the ceramic turbine will only handle a certain amount of heat coupled with this resistance. The heat builds up over several minutes of very hard driving (say on a circuit) and the turbine shatters or parts company with the shaft. Leaning out the engine to achieve more horsepower also increases the temperature of the exhaust.

So to answer your question, our experience has been that 0.8 bar (12 lbs) is OK for a road car as long as it is only in short bursts so that the heat does not build up. If you do any circuit work or long distance high speed stuff, then 0.7 bar (10 lbs) may well be the safe max.

The boost readings above are at the engine inlet. The boost at the turbo will of course be higher than that depending on the airflow of the intercooler and the pipework. By reducing this restriction (better intercooler) you can have slightly more than 0.8bar at the engine but still have the same resistance (boost) at the turbo.

With a really good intercooler and pipes we have achieved 0.8 bar (12 lbs) on a 200 RWKW road car reliably. But 5 hard laps on the circuit and the smoke escaped.

Sorry that this is a complex answer to the question but it is a complex scenario.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...