Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the stock R32 GTS-T intercooler is not the most efficient intercooler due to its design, size and position, but it'll do the job with the factory turbo pushing 10-12psi, although ideally you'll be doing the engine and turbo a favour by upgrading to a decent front mounted unit.

if you are looking at eventually modifying your car for more performance, i'd recommend you upgrade your intercooler so that should give you an idea of how good they are.

cheers.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by broken

hey, i run about 14psi through my stock turbo and cooler and it runs fine.

it has been on the dyno and it doesn't lean out or detonate.  

btw my car hit 27 psi on the dyno by mistake (for about 2 secs) and the turbo is still holding together 6 months later.

do u realise that if u run 12psi instead of 14psi through the stock cooler u would have more power?

When I had a R32 GTst I ran 14.7 psi all day long no probs. Was on dyno too and the mixtures were fine.

Wouldnt go any higher though. Its not the engine thats not capable. Its the Turbos that shit itself.

To answer your question 12 psi is perfectly safe . Dont worry :D

Hi guys, there are two problems with the standard turbo, both centred around the ceramic exhaust turbine.

Firstly, being ceramic the turbine is sweated/bonded onto the common shaft and therefore it does not like too much resistance ie; the exhaust is pushing the turbine while the compressor is trying to move air into the engine. Too much resistance (boost) and the turbine and the shaft part company. This seems to be the only one people talk about, but.............

The second problem is one of heat, the ceramic turbine will only handle a certain amount of heat coupled with this resistance. The heat builds up over several minutes of very hard driving (say on a circuit) and the turbine shatters or parts company with the shaft. Leaning out the engine to achieve more horsepower also increases the temperature of the exhaust.

So to answer your question, our experience has been that 0.8 bar (12 lbs) is OK for a road car as long as it is only in short bursts so that the heat does not build up. If you do any circuit work or long distance high speed stuff, then 0.7 bar (10 lbs) may well be the safe max.

The boost readings above are at the engine inlet. The boost at the turbo will of course be higher than that depending on the airflow of the intercooler and the pipework. By reducing this restriction (better intercooler) you can have slightly more than 0.8bar at the engine but still have the same resistance (boost) at the turbo.

With a really good intercooler and pipes we have achieved 0.8 bar (12 lbs) on a 200 RWKW road car reliably. But 5 hard laps on the circuit and the smoke escaped.

Sorry that this is a complex answer to the question but it is a complex scenario.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...