Jump to content
SAU Community

Opinion On Quarter Mile Time..

WazR32GTSt
 Share

Recommended Posts

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

broke my drag racing virginity thursday night at Willowbank, QLD

car:

r32 gtst

rb20det automatic

155rwkw

time:

ET = 14.714

speed = 98mph

60' = 2.503

The 2 things that were hurting me:

takeoff with the auto and rb25 turbo was hard. stomped on accelerator and brake and pulled up handbrake, but couldn't build positive manifold pressure as it has an rb25 turbo that's slightly too big to get boost at that load

i run out of power about 6000rpm as seen on the dyno, so the auto changing at 7500rpm wasn't helping.. would ideally have changed at 6500rpm of there abouts

any ideas to improve?

does that mph match the ET?

i'm considering a shift kit and going to ring MV automatics next week..

cheers,

Warren

post-2094-1153017284.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126285-opinion-on-quarter-mile-time/
Share on other sites
RB SANDY Rising Star

RB SANDY

Posted
Posted

hi what are the mods are you running and the boost

a 14.7 is ok a ba xr6 turbo only runs 14.9

here is a link with all the ba xr6 turbo specs

http://www.mynrma.com.au/falcon-xr6-turbo_...n_xr6_specs.asp

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

I don't know if these things will work for you but...

1)a: S-AFC to sort out the top end AFR's a tad.

b: R32 ROM reprogram or other ecu to sort out the ignition maps that aren't going to suit the cams you now have. This is probably the biggest probelm the motor has at the moment.

2) Do the trans. Stall and shift kit it.

3) Have you gutted the standard R32 box of that air baffle thingo they have? If not probably do that and make sure there is a nice clean air feed (not familiar with r32 gtst's tho')

The MPH is better than the E.T, 2.5 sec 60ft even with over reving shifts means you got a 13 second car at the moment if you can knock it down to a 2.1 or so.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the advice, rev210... jsut what i was after

i will be doing the ECU, but what i was waiting for was for my other engine mods to be done first. i'm not going to be doing much else to theengine for a while (have just done rb25 turbo and cam gears), so new EPROM is the go i think

trans will be next, however. shift kit is a definate. high stall? well i'm not sure that thie would suit the fact that its an everyday driver and lack of low-down torque is the problem at the moment.. i mean i could try to get like a 2300-2500rpm torque converter maybe? like a small increase? not sure about my options though and how much it will cost..

my airbox has been heavily tampered with. i have removed the baffles and re-routed 2 ram-air feeds.. next quarter run i might remove the air filter too..

a 13sec car?? really?? so you think dropping 60' by 0.4 will take almost a second off the ET?? hmmmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...