Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have read in many threads that the Std IC is pretty much useless & something about a *pressure drop* after 6000rpm which infact causes the turbo to have to actually work at alot higher psi than the reading showing on gauge (taken at the plenum) & that this is the main reason that you should upgrade to a FMIC before increasing boost as its will have better flow etc...

Could someone please explain this to me as i do not really undserstand the whole concept?

Also if i were to upgrade to a larger R34 GTT side mount would this eliminate the pressure drop or has it something to do with the piping etc & the fact that its a side mount?

Any help appreciated as i like to know all details (why is it better?/how things work? etc) before i do any mods

Cheers

Noel

Edited by Noel
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126782-std-r33-intercooler/
Share on other sites

noel

www.are.com.au has an explanation of static and dynamic pressure drop.

with a standard turbo an R34 GT-t intercooler is an improvement and are cheap to install. they bolt straight up to an R33. there is no truth to the 6000rpm theory. if you push more air into the IC than its interior design will allow or beyond its ability to cool you will have issues. due to the same pipe run response is unchanged and you get an improvement in keeping charge temps down over a standard R33 SMIC.

(ps. i have an R34 SMIC if you are looking for one)

Edited by wolverine

how much better is the R34 stock smic over the R33 stocker ?

I might be interested.

Also, while we're at it, is there much difference in response time when running 80ft :blink: of piping for a fmic, compared to the stock side mount's shorter piping ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...