Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I am looking at building an engine for a project over the coming months, and was wondering where in brisbane to send my rb20 block to be machined and bored? I know there is Headsense for porting and flowing the head, but the rest i havent been able to find.

If anyone knows of mahine shops who do this type of work can you let me know?

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by murrayis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127183-workshop-info/
Share on other sites

hey champ i can tell u not to go to *******, there prob not really what ur looking for but if u took a cheap option don't go there, i know of too many stuff ups on their behalf, sure the'll fix problems but not cover ur labour time.

EDIT: No public defaming of workshops, yes it sucks but that's the way it is - Revhead

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127183-workshop-info/#findComment-2352693
Share on other sites

cost depends on how much u want done. you defintly want the bore machined to get the ridge removed, you can get the top surface of the block machined so its all the same height & better compression, you can get the crankshaft tunnels machined to fix twisting of the block but thats very x'y and i doubt youll notice the difference. I'm assuming your getting new cams so you dont have to worry about that but you can also get your crank machined to eliminate ovality and taper but if you can find a bigger crank maybe out of a rb30 or something along with longer and stronger con rods you wont get a longer stroke but youll get more mechanical advantage hence more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127183-workshop-info/#findComment-2371073
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...