Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anybody seen or fitted a GTR plenum to an RB25 with a throttlebody mounted at inlet. Thinking of do this mod to make inlet track shorter. Can I buy adapters to mount up to RB25 head? I have an EB T/body. Maybe I should buy a coulpe of GTR turbos, afms and ex. manifolds as well. I have just fitted an SAF-C so I should be able to tune to suit turbos. Could I use 1 Z32 afm or do I still need 2 afms. Would std comp. work with 2 afms?? Any real advantage with these mods?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/
Share on other sites

none of that is gonna bolt on and for the hassle id just get a rb26 as its gonna cost ya abit in fabricating all those adaptors. stock plenum is good for bulk power anyway and just do the 180 degree bend pipework instead and 2 gtr turbos r a waste of time, just put on a big single instead saving all the messing with adaptors. i wouldnt be tuning it with an safc with twin turbos if it was me. spend the money on more useful mods like manifold/single turbo, intercooler, injectors, etc.

thats my 2c worth :wave:

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/#findComment-2356804
Share on other sites

Don't forget the RB26 uses six individual throttles. There are GT-R style plenums availabe for the 25 with just the one throttle body spot at the front where the inlet is on an RB26 one, but they're not cheap...

Here's one available from Unique Autosports:

skyplazplenum.jpg

skyplazplenum2.jpg

Also available in a kit with intercooler:

skyplazkit.jpg

$1,150 for the plenum only, or $3,200 for the kit with FMIC and plumbing.

Check out http://www.nismo.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/#findComment-2356823
Share on other sites

Don't forget the RB26 uses six individual throttles. There are GT-R style plenums availabe for the 25 with just the one throttle body spot at the front where the inlet is on an RB26 one, but they're not cheap...

Here's one available from Unique Autosports:

skyplazplenum.jpg

skyplazplenum2.jpg

Also available in a kit with intercooler:

skyplazkit.jpg

$1,150 for the plenum only, or $3,200 for the kit with FMIC and plumbing.

Check out http://www.nismo.com.au

WOW 3.2k!! is it worth it?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/#findComment-2356939
Share on other sites

WOW 3.2k!! is it worth it?!

1/2 way to a rb26 engine, plus sell your rb25 for 3k and you could have a 26 almost. just gotta spend another million to make the 26 run in the stagea :wave:

if people make 400rwhp+ with stock plenum then why waste 2k on it when u could buy other gear that will make it 10 times faster.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/#findComment-2356981
Share on other sites

Exactly, so I wouldn't bother. Looks good, and makes the plumbing a lot neater, but there are no real gains to be made as far as power is concerned. Might reduce lag due to the shorter intake path, and being able to use a larger throttle body would be good, but the standard one is okay for most applications as it is...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/#findComment-2356993
Share on other sites

Yeap everything that has been posted here has been posted 50ty billion times in the general section.

The plenum alone will only add bling, and the stock plenum is good for 400+hp so it would be a very expensive mod for little or no performance improvement, well at least on a RB25, havent read much on wether this improves performance on RB26..?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/#findComment-2357436
Share on other sites

if u want a ff plenum buy a greddy one for $900 and save adapting something that aint made for your engine, plus the fact the heads gotta come off to weld up the holes he mentions, and facing the head because it would get warped abit from welding it. twin turbos is not even worth bothering about when 1 single can make the same power and more and half the pipework, twice the room to work with and u dont need 2 dump pipes and all the water lines and associated stuff. it seriously is a not worthwhile idea when u could have a highmount gt30 for around the same cost and 1/10 of the stuffing around.

PM sydneykid and i bet he says exacty the same thing. i know twin turbos sounds good to tell people, but i think id rather say i got twice the power for the same money. gtr turbos are rubbish ceramic wheels anyway so u would need n1's or 2530s to go anywhere, and try 2k for a gt30, and $600 for a gate and $200 for water/oil lines compared to the exhuast manifold fitting work, n1 or 2530s are an easy $3500 minimum and then water lines to fit, twin dump pipes, inlet piping.

each to there own :happy: i just dont like people wasting money for the sake of saying its twin turbo. would u rather have 250rwkw max with stock gtr turbos or 300rwkw+ with a gt30 and it all bolts on?

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127595-gtr-plenum/#findComment-2359996
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...