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Correction? I'm assuming you are talking about the water temp correction table...

It could be a few thigns.. I'm running a 9:1 comp ratio so I 'may' be able lean her off a little before combustion issues arise when the car is cold; it could be the headwork and combustion chamber design or possibly even how well the injectors atomize the fuel.

I've spent quite a bit of time slowly leaning mine off until i began to feel drivability issues.

As the engine comes up to temp so damn quickly (2km's or a 2-3mins from a cold start) its a very slow process getting the +10, +30 and +50 spot on, I've still got a little work to do on the +50 as it feels as if it could be leaned off a tad more.

Post up your water temp enrichment table.. :(

What cranking inj. values have you settled on?

The PFC shouldn't be loosing any information from the wate temp correction and inj cranking ms tables. If it is there is an issue, which I believe is also covered in the pfc faq. IF however you are playing with the other inj. and timing correction then I wouldn't be fiddling with that as there is no need.

I am running the same cranking and water temp values as you... I'll hopefully get the wideband on and get it sorted this weekend. Nice to have an idle lower than 1000k now... sounds sweet through the 80mm RSR GTII with no cat...

Fogot about that FAQ... I've got some reading to do, thanks!

I used the same same tables as you for both...

I put the injector percent for all six up to 120% and it idles perfect... just need to get it tuned now so that's only at idle. I did find out that 120 and correction set to 1.2xx+ will make you blow flames under any sort of load on a warm car with no cat!

I can't get the boost controller to do much of anything with the duty cycle at 90 and boost at 1.3 I'm still only hitting .7x... I'll check my lines tonight

RBSileighty,

There's an issue somewhere as if running stock injectors etc you shouldn't have to raise the injector correction.

I assume it still plays idling up once warm aswell? As this has nothing to do with what water temp or cranking inj. correction values you run... and as I said would indicate there's issues some where. :D

Running stock injectors? Fuel pressure set correctly?

Regulator set at 3 bar with no vac line... stock injectors. I am running a Sard FPR/MKIV Supra Fuel pump/pressure measured with greddy gauge...

The non-working boost controller it kinda getting on my nerves. Where do people have their "com" port connected to?

Edited by RBsileighty

I don't quite understand the com port connected to comment.

If you are having issues with the boost controller have you tried disabling it from the pfc h/c menu and seen how it affects idle etc.

Mine lumps over and runs like a pig with it enabled without a pfc connector.

Datalogit?

I have datalogit but it's not hooked up...

There are two ports coming off of the solinoid. Where are your two connections (vac lines) going?

I will try disabling it this morning on my way to work...

Thanks for all of your help!

The car has a FMIC, Apex pod filter and RB25 turbo... those are the only power mods for now (80mm catless exhaust mentioned before). I wanted to see what I can get power wise out of a tune before I put my 270 cams and gears in... plus with what's going on now... that would have just complicated things even more!

EDIT:

Ok... looked at the apex diagram for piping and my assumption was correct... I have the COM and ON ports backwards. I will switch them and let you know after work... hopefully that's my only problem!

Edited by RBsileighty

The lines were wrong... but still doesn't work. Just to see if it was something mech I pulled the vac line off of the actuator and plugged it. Hit 1 bar... so it's not that...

Makes me think it's wiring. I have the 3 wire connector to the ecu and then the two wires tapped into wire 60 and 25. Anyone have any ideas?

Makes me think it's wiring. I have the 3 wire connector to the ecu and then the two wires tapped into wire 60 and 25. Anyone have any ideas?

This is not right. One wire should run to pin #25 the other should run to normal 12v power.

It's hitting 1 bar as the solenoid isn't opening (wiring is wrong) so the gate isn't opening, which means unlimited boost. Run one wire to 12v power and the other to 25 and it should be fine. If you get unlimited boost, flip the wires around and it will work

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