Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 25t/gtr Wheel Size And Speedo Gearing .

discopotato03
 Share

Recommended Posts

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi all , trying to find out the difference in diametre between 33GTS25T and 33GTR . By my calculations the diametre of 205/55/16 and 245/45/17 are different so I guess the speedo drive gears are different . Can anyone quote the difference in speedo drive gear or colour .

Thanks , cheers A .

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Hi all , trying to find out the difference in diametre between 33GTS25T and 33GTR . By my calculations the diametre of 205/55/16 and 245/45/17 are different so I guess the speedo drive gears are different . Can anyone quote the difference in speedo drive gear or colour .

Thanks , cheers A .

The common Skyline sizes are;

205/55/16

225/50/16

245/40/17

275/35/17

245/35/18

285/30/18

They are all the same diameter, ie ~505 revs per km.

>_< cheers ;)

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks SK , but for the record are the R33 GTST and GTR speedo drive/sensors the same . In the cheaper spec Pilot tyres they don't list a 245/45/17 but in the mid spec they do . I was thinking the 45 series rubber may be a little more compliant than 40 with the Kid spec suspension . Its the "dog house factor" you understand ...

Cheers A .

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Thanks SK , but for the record are the R33 GTST and GTR speedo drive/sensors the same . In the cheaper spec Pilot tyres they don't list a 245/45/17 but in the mid spec they do . I was thinking the 45 series rubber may be a little more compliant than 40 with the Kid spec suspension . Its the "dog house factor" you understand ...

Cheers A .

My wife’s car runs the 235/45/17 Michelin Pilot Precedia and rides very nicely. Mine has 245/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sports and is noticeably firmer in the suspension, plus the lower profile Sports are not such a freeway tyre. As you know, SOSK’s R33GTST has 245/40/17 Michelins on 9” rims, same as the Stagea. The R32GTST has 245/40/17 on 8” rims.

The 235/45/17 Michelins would be the go, but they might look a little skinny on the 9” R33GTR wheels. Even the 245/40/17’s on the Stagea look a tad skinny on its 9” R33GTR wheels, they really need 255 or 265’s.

:P cheers :dry:

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes I was looking at a few sets of various Skyline rims or Saturday and the weirdest combination I found was I think 215/50/17 on R33 GTR rims ? The sidewall angles looked ridiculous .

I'm not overly concerned about 245 or 235 tyres looking skinny as long as they perform and ride well . It'll be interesting to see how prices vary according to aspect ratios but other things have to happen before I get to this stage .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...