Jump to content
SAU Community

Automatic To Manual Transmission Conversion.

george.bryant
 Share

Recommended Posts

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
Posted

I need some tips please guys.

I'm converting my PNV r30 coupe to manual as i've finally found everything I need.

How do i get the bits out of the manual r30? Do i have to get the dash out to get the pedal box out? Any suggestions on driveshaft and clutch etc?

racsov500 Grand Master

racsov500

Posted
Posted

just general not R30 specific

tailshaft is easy, 4 bolts on the diff, use 2 spanners. if its got a centre bearing unbolt that and slide it out of theback of the gearbox

drain the clutch lines via the bleed valve (or unbolt the line) on the clutch slave, unbolt it from the bellhousing

undo any earth wires, reverse swicth wires, ect going into the box. make sure you get all of them

unbolt the shifter linkage, youll probably have to take out the centre concole and the shifter boot. might also get away with not having to unbolt it.

start undoing the bellhousing bolts, using lots of extentions.

undo the gearbox Xmember bolts. this is where it gets dangerous as the box is only supported by the input shaft

everything unbolted and out of the way, slide the box back and once the shaft is free, drop it out. if its a smaller box you should be able to lift it yourself, but it sucks doing it on the ground!

umm clutch stuff unbolt the master from the firewall (careful of spilling fluid) and unbolt the linkage. then shove yourself doen under the dash and get the pedal out and stuff out

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just general not R30 specific

tailshaft is easy, 4 bolts on the diff, use 2 spanners. if its got a centre bearing unbolt that and slide it out of theback of the gearbox

drain the clutch lines via the bleed valve (or unbolt the line) on the clutch slave, unbolt it from the bellhousing

undo any earth wires, reverse swicth wires, ect going into the box. make sure you get all of them

unbolt the shifter linkage, youll probably have to take out the centre concole and the shifter boot. might also get away with not having to unbolt it.

start undoing the bellhousing bolts, using lots of extentions.

undo the gearbox Xmember bolts. this is where it gets dangerous as the box is only supported by the input shaft

everything unbolted and out of the way, slide the box back and once the shaft is free, drop it out. if its a smaller box you should be able to lift it yourself, but it sucks doing it on the ground!

umm clutch stuff unbolt the master from the firewall (careful of spilling fluid) and unbolt the linkage. then shove yourself doen under the dash and get the pedal out and stuff out

thanks

Alfadog Collaborator

Alfadog

Posted
Posted

They're pretty damn heavy. We used two jacks and three people to be safe. It was easy enough, just keep the box stable as you lower it down. You might want to unbolt one of the front wheels so that you can get the box out easily once removed.

Sure you've got everything you need?

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
They're pretty damn heavy. We used two jacks and three people to be safe. It was easy enough, just keep the box stable as you lower it down. You might want to unbolt one of the front wheels so that you can get the box out easily once removed.

Sure you've got everything you need?

I got it out.

I got:

Gearbox

Pedal box

Clutch Cylinders

Front and rear driveshafts

This driveshaft cage

Gearbox crossmember

i jsut have to get a clutch and flywheel (sorting that out now).

DO you guys reckon it'll be possible to install the manual box with the car on axle stands?? I'll be doing it as soon as i get my clutch and flywheel.

Also, the plug that goes to the loom on the manual. I noticed my auto has the same plug. Will that be all plug & play??

Alfadog Collaborator

Alfadog

Posted
Posted

We did the whole thing with axle stands. It was a pity fiddly getting the box fitting onto the spline but realised to get the teeth fitting it was easiest to have one person moving the shaft atthe back of the box at the same time as wiggling the box in. Sorry if that's a poor explanation.....

Got spigot bush?

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
We did the whole thing with axle stands. It was a pity fiddly getting the box fitting onto the spline but realised to get the teeth fitting it was easiest to have one person moving the shaft atthe back of the box at the same time as wiggling the box in. Sorry if that's a poor explanation.....

Got spigot bush?

I get what you mean about wiggling the box on and moving ths shaft at the same time to get it to line up etc?

Spigot bush...shit...

Where does the spigot bush go??

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I get what you mean about wiggling the box on and moving ths shaft at the same time to get it to line up etc?

Spigot bush...shit...

Where does the spigot bush go??

Sweet i know. :-) Stagefumer jogged my memory.

I'll see if i can get one when i get my clutch tomorrow.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

What about the FLYWHEEL, I don't see that on your list George.

Cheers, D

I got it out.

I got:

Gearbox

Pedal box

Clutch Cylinders

Front and rear driveshafts

This driveshaft cage

Gearbox crossmember

i jsut have to get a clutch and flywheel (sorting that out now).

DO you guys reckon it'll be possible to install the manual box with the car on axle stands?? I'll be doing it as soon as i get my clutch and flywheel.

Also, the plug that goes to the loom on the manual. I noticed my auto has the same plug. Will that be all plug & play??

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
what - turn the bushes upside down? hehe

That's the one Harry, but different to stagefumer, by turning the bushes 180 degrees in the shift lever, it actually shortens the throw inside the gearbox, whereas just shortening the length of the lever does nothing to the shift travel.

Does exactly the same thing in our R30's that $150 plus does to S13 & R31/32 etc.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Chocolate Cheesecake.
      Infiniti Q60 Navigation Update

      By Chocolate Cheesecake. · Posted

      Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • R0yalT
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By R0yalT · Posted

      Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...