Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppls,

If any one has recently done a set of sparkys and still has them laying around would you be so kind as to throw your digi camera in to macro mode and take a few snaps at various angles of the sparky, be sure to let me know what heat range they are, power your making and wot afr.

Thanks ppls :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128361-wanted-pics-of-your-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

I pulled out these iridiums a while ago, they had done 30,000kms at 212kw, I posted them up att and got good feedback, i put them back in after a light clean and have done 10k kms since. They are gapped at .8 and a heat range of 7.

post-17300-1154429394.jpg

post-17300-1154429444.jpg

Thanks for the pics..

Its really hard to check out the sparky's at such a distance.. Looks as if you've been running some kind of octane boost or fuel additive though. :P

What would be really nice is to throw your camera in macro mode (every digital camera has this function now) and take a nice close picture of the electrode/strap etc..

Here's a few pics I had laying around in the bottom of my toolbox that were pulled out after the motor had been detonating a little..

They are a BCPR6E NGK plug.

I will clean them up with carby cleaner to see if I can tell if they were the correct heat range for the application. (by looking at the strap)

Apparently you can tell if a motors been detonating by looking at the center ceramic and looking for what looks like pepper. U know that ground black pepper, very small granuals. AND... I can't see it by the eye but in one pic you will see a shinny silver dot on one of the pictures, this is apparently a little bit of alloy from the piston and what not that sweats during detonation.

I tried to clean the center pics strap a little to see if I could see the heat marking. Apparently the colour should differ preferably before the elbow, if its well before or not at all then the plug is too cold, if its close to the weld then the plug is too hot.

Excessive black crap around the thread lip is a sign light load afr's are too rich. At wot it apparently doesn't have time to settle.

I Think..... Which is the reason for this thread. To learn. :P

post-382-1154433824.jpg

post-382-1154433830.jpg

post-382-1154433835.jpg

Yeh i was taught, if its got silver specs then its detonating and they are aluminium particles. You should see like a light line down the shoulder of the return, sorta 3/4 down, if its too far down near the actual thread lip its running too hot, if its too far up near the start then its running too cold, so go figure inbetween would say its running ideal. So long as there is no detonation.

Good to see more then one person has the same idea of plug reading:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...