Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi my name is tom just wondering i have a 97 nissan stagea the motor has a upmount to4 turbo with 38ml external wastgate and need a new computer to run higher boost. i heard the power fc cant be plug in if the car is auto as u all know most stagea's are all autos. so i was wondering if any one know what i can do

'thanks tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128525-what-computer-fits-the-stagea/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If your willing to spend $1k or so a Greddy E-manage Ultimate can do the job. You need to know a little about which harnesses to buy, so ask a dealer in your area, or have a read here:

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/#E-manage%20Ultimate:

If your willing to spend $1k or so a Greddy E-manage Ultimate can do the job. You need to know a little about which harnesses to buy, so ask a dealer in your area, or have a read here:

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/#E-manage%20Ultimate:

thanks mate

Try this thread;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61207

Then this one;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80642

:woot: cheers ;)

PS; many of the guys on here have had Stageas for a couple of years. There is very little that we haven’t previously discussed and resolved. Please try a search first, as the chances are, no matter what you want to know, it’s been covered.

Edited by Sydneykid
thanks mate a guy said that could use a SAFC II for it and just piggy back but i dont know what he means about piggy back it

“Piggy back” means you use the SAFC (DFA, SITC or equivalent) to “bend” the signals going from the various sensors to the standard ECU. An example would be using the SAFC (or DFA) to ”tune” the AF ratios via changing the AFM voltages that the ECU sees.

The Jaycar DFA is very similar to the Apexi SAFC, so the DFA thread is 99% applicable to the SAFC. Do a search on SAFC’s if you need further info.

:P cheers :D

Yeah piggyback means that they intercept information going to the stock ecu and trick the stock ecu into thinking something is not happeneing, when it is.

I had a SAFC on my old R33 and it did good for just tuning the AFR's, but didnt do anything for ignition, which you can buy a jarcar kit for.

I guess with a true standalone replacement then you have the power to fiddle with all the various parts of your car which it controls. When I say you, I mean your tuner :no:

hey ska thanks for that if i intsall that safc will let me run higher boost and will it tell me if the motor was going to blow due to higher boost or dont i have to worry about that.

one more thing about the ingition does it make a big difference and how and when u say afr does that air flow something

sorry i dont know to much yet

thanks for all ur help

Edited by tomoy

OK AFR = Air Fuel Ratio (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio)

Well when you run higher boost, you obviously need more fuel, right.

But if you run too much boost you will blow your motor, wether you have enough fuel or not, you'll end up with a hole in your pistons or worse.......

So if you run high boost with a stock ECU (computer) it see's the amount of air flow through the AFM (Air Flow Meter) and so when it gets to a certain point, it basically goes into R&R mode, (Rich & Retard) where it puts as much fuel in and retards the timing back to save the motor.

What something like a SAFC does is intercept the signal going from the AFM to the ECU and tricks the ECU into thinking there is less air flow then there actualy is.

It probably does a whole bunch more stuff, but that is about the limit of my knowledge :laugh:

Please anyone correct me if I am wrong, ie SK :O

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GREDDY-E-MANAGE-ULT...1QQcmdZViewItem

good price!! but are they worth the extra bux over SAFC etc?

They are a big upgrade over SAFC or other basic Interceptors. See the E-man-Ult reads the AFM signal, but doesn't alter it. It splices into the Injector wiring, and leans/richens by changing Inj Pulse-width itself, instead of tricking the factory ECU. The factory ECU can't tell anythings odd, as RPM, AFM, TPS all line-up fine, so it just runs as normal (no fuel cuts, or too much ignition advance/retard).

The E-man-Ult does the same trick with your ignition timing. Its got most of the power of a wire-in standalone ECU, but keeps other factory ECU functions you need, like shift-logic on an auto for example.

And it doesn't need a hand-controller to program, it has a USB connection for your laptop yeehaaa!

Writings on the wall for tricky new vehicles and standalone systems, hence chipping late evo's etc being so popular, and when you wanna tune it yourself, an E-man-Ult for this sorta price is a lot of tuneability for not too much $$. Or so I think :laugh:

my haltech e11v2 works very well.talk to a guy named adam at JUST ENGINE MANAGMENT near liverpool,sydney.he did mine and is a wizz with all ecu issues.dont have his number off hand sorry!!

so, youve currently got an auto?

would LOVE info on gear shifts, quality thereof etc, current condition of the gearbox.

from all thr info Ive received, there isnt a full computer that operates the Nissan auto computer correctly (ie retard the timing, and control the shift points)..................................

They are a big upgrade over SAFC or other basic Interceptors. See the E-man-Ult reads the AFM signal, but doesn't alter it. It splices into the Injector wiring, and leans/richens by changing Inj Pulse-width itself, instead of tricking the factory ECU. The factory ECU can't tell anythings odd, as RPM, AFM, TPS all line-up fine, so it just runs as normal (no fuel cuts, or too much ignition advance/retard).

The E-man-Ult does the same trick with your ignition timing. Its got most of the power of a wire-in standalone ECU, but keeps other factory ECU functions you need, like shift-logic on an auto for example.

And it doesn't need a hand-controller to program, it has a USB connection for your laptop yeehaaa!

Writings on the wall for tricky new vehicles and standalone systems, hence chipping late evo's etc being so popular, and when you wanna tune it yourself, an E-man-Ult for this sorta price is a lot of tuneability for not too much $$. Or so I think :laugh:

I have yet to see an EManage work successfully on an auto Skyline/Stagea.

The first releases had problems with over heating ignitors and coils, leading to total ignition system failure.

The main problem is, because the EManage sits in between the ECU and the ignitors, it interferes with the ignition retard and cut on gearchanges. So you get harsh gear changes and the resulting premature wear on the bands and clutches.

The above is why I use an SITC, as per the following thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80642

:wub: cheers :dry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...