Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

I have mentioned a couple of times that I would look into getting something organised about improving our driving and racing. I have identified 2 possible people who could do this for us.

Peter Finlay or Ian Luff and both operate out at Oran Park.

Peter has sent me out an information pack and I will post the info when I get it.

Ian Luff has given me a list of events.

Stage 1: Smartdrive, Basic driving skills with braking, steering, emergency stopping etc.

Stage 2: Advance Car, This is done on the skid pan and involves all wet weather work.

Stage 3: Performance driving, High speed work, cornering, race lines etc.

Cost.

Stage 1: $236 Mid week, $258 Saturday

Stage 2: $247 Mid week,

Stage 3: $302 Mid week.

Packages: Stages 1 & 2 $462, Stages 1 & 3 $495

All courses are 1 Day, out at Oran Park.

If you want to get your CAM's License you need to do stages 1 & 3.

I want to know who is interested, and what you are interested in, we can book exclusive days, or take a whole day just for our selves, or get a group discount. They can tailor a course just for us maybe compress 2 days into 1.

Personally I would like to do the stage 3 course only, but I want my CAM's so I may have to do stage 1 as well.

Post up your interest and I will see what I can do with the price and or getting our selves a sole Skyline day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129-syd-race-driver-training/
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I am definitely interested in doing this. I have already done the skidpan day, so I would be only interested in 1 and 3 - but the skidpan was hell fun, so I'm always up for some more of that action. :cheers:

All,

I have mentioned a couple of times that I would look into getting something organised about improving our driving and racing. I have identified 2 possible people who could do this for us.

Peter Finlay or Ian Luff and both operate out at Oran Park.

Peter has sent me out an information pack and I will post the info when I get it.

Ian Luff has given me a list of events.

Stage 1: Smartdrive, Basic driving skills with braking, steering, emergency stopping etc.

Stage 2: Advance Car, This is done on the skid pan and involves all wet weather work.

Stage 3: Performance driving, High speed work, cornering, race lines etc.

Cost.

Stage 1: $236 Mid week, $258 Saturday

Stage 2: $247 Mid week,

Stage 3: $302 Mid week.

Packages: Stages 1 & 2 $462, Stages 1 & 3 $495

All courses are 1 Day, out at Oran Park.

If you want to get your CAM's License you need to do stages 1 & 3.

I want to know who is interested, and what you are interested in, we can book exclusive days, or take a whole day just for our selves, or get a group discount. They can tailor a course just for us maybe compress 2 days into 1.

Personally I would like to do the stage 3 course only, but I want my CAM's so I may have to do stage 1 as well.

Post up your interest and I will see what I can do with the price and or getting our selves a sole Skyline day.

yep, we did this in August 2002, about 12 of us, its was great :)

no seriously guys, this thread is from 2002....

Perhaps start a thread in NSW, training like this is super valuable and a great idea, Brendan organised the last course with Aaron McGill in November last year so it must be time for another one :mad:

no seriously guys, this thread is from 2002....

Perhaps start a thread in NSW, training like this is super valuable and a great idea, Brendan organised the last course with Aaron McGill in November last year so it must be time for another one :(

ha ha ha ha... must pay attention to that date of posting time stamp thingo in the future..

nice one :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...