Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ummm... I think he said 5w50.

Which is what I use, over filled (to the bottom of the bump on the stick) ofcourse.

I think 10w30 would break down too early in an RB turbo engine (engine gets too hot for that oil).

Sorry yes 5W50. Same thing really. Still nice and thick.

The M1 10W30 won't break down in an RB. Its fully synthetic PAO based oil so it can handle the stress without breaking a sweat. Hell Nissan's OEM oil is 7.5W30 mineral stuff so if that can do the job...

Your average RB doesnt run any hotter than any other engine, why would you say that? The turbo is water cooled anyway so the turbo isn't as hard on the oil as the days of old.

Guest 40th-edition

i run 10w30 because i get it from work.. does the job and have no probs with it at all..

the numbers given to the weights of the oils r over rated ne ways... 50 is a large cold weight and 0 is just bull shit.. just oil componeys claming crap ( i know they go through sia testing)

i run 10w30 because i get it from work.. does the job and have no probs with it at all..

the numbers given to the weights of the oils r over rated ne ways... 50 is a large cold weight and 0 is just bull shit.. just oil componeys claming crap ( i know they go through sia testing)

50 is not the cold weight. It is the measure of the high temperature viscosity.

As for the numbers being crap, it is easy to compare the difference between two grades. Just tip some out of the bottle - it will suprise you how different they are.

Essentially, to compare the 5W50 to the 10W30 they are basically the same oil, just with different viscosity modfiers. The 5W50 will be "thinner' when cold & "thicker" when hot. This is a relative thing as obviously the oil's viscosity will decrease as it gets hotter.

At the end of the day you will be marginally better off with the 5W50 because it is more stable, most noticeably when hot.

is it 5W50, or 5W30? cause 5W50 sounds like a pretty thick oil to me.

its definitley 5w-50.... but u can buy 10w-30 aswell....

when is oil at its thickest? i never drive my car for longer than 50 mins at a time, i dont go on long trips.... so what would be better for me?

im only ever doing little trips to work and stuff... never big road trips..

Beef

whether you drive for 20 mins or 5 hours, once the car car has come up to operating temp the oil temp shouldn't rise (unless you are flogging it). normal oil gets thinner as it got hot, but multigrade oils are designed so they don't thin as much.

Edited by mad082

just doing a bit of research, normally oil thins at higher temp. multi-grade oils have polymers that stop it hinning too much (so its thin when cold, and not too thin when hot). the dissadvantage with high range oils (big gap between 1st and 2nd numbers) is that they are more prone to breaking down. it is the oil that lubricates, not the additives, so the less additives, the better.

Hi Guys,

There was mention above of filling oil past the MAX to the BUMP. I was told by one mechanic that this reduces the change of oil surge and is ok but by another mechnic that filling past MAX on the dipstick can cause potential damage. Can I get some sort of common consensus on whether this is ok?

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...