Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Fconv Questions R33 Gtr

GT-R LM

By GT-R LM,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Mashrock n John; the Navigator Pro cannot be used for tuning purposes on the F-CON V Pro. I too have read the reviews and speculation on the UK forums but unfortunately it's all bullshit.

How do I know? I have a Navigator Pro and all it does is monitoring of the system vitals. You can only use it to tune the F-CON S and SZ - and with those; it's only a small amount of tuning, not the entire map.

Also; the two holes out back is the tuning port and the comms port - looks like a phone socket ehh? :)

F-CONs are the way to go; they wouldn't be worth so much if they were "just a piggy back". I had a look at the world's 10 fastest GTRs and I think 7/10 were using the V Pro system (in some cases two of them)

GT-R LM Proficient

GT-R LM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i agree that the fconv is one of the best

Satanic: i think your talking about the ports behind the black screwed in cover.and what are those number switches?

What are these plugs(pic)

post-7189-1155270192.jpg

post-7189-1155270377.jpg

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Those plugs are used for plugging in other HKS peripherals such as the Knock Amp etc etc... there are a few other goodies that you can get for the F-CON. There is also a rumor going around that the ECU can be used to control other things such as water spray, NOS etc so maybe that's the extra controller for it.

Those numbered switches on the front panel of the ECU are for selecting the maps you want to run :)

Guest Mashrock

Guest Mashrock

Posted
Posted
Mashrock n John; the Navigator Pro cannot be used for tuning purposes on the F-CON V Pro. I too have read the reviews and speculation on the UK forums but unfortunately it's all bullshit.

How do I know? I have a Navigator Pro and all it does is monitoring of the system vitals. You can only use it to tune the F-CON S and SZ - and with those; it's only a small amount of tuning, not the entire map.

Also; the two holes out back is the tuning port and the comms port - looks like a phone socket ehh? :mellow:

F-CONs are the way to go; they wouldn't be worth so much if they were "just a piggy back". I had a look at the world's 10 fastest GTRs and I think 7/10 were using the V Pro system (in some cases two of them)

what software version are you up on? apparently it ONLY works with the latest version. i'm awaiting a video/slideshow on the whole operation. from a highly respected gtr tuner in the uk

and hes talking about the two white plugs that hang off the loom that goes into the fcon.

Guest Mashrock

Guest Mashrock

Posted
Posted

well time will tell i guess.

i myself was doubting it in the beginning. but they seem pretty confident in what it can do. i've still got to get my car tuned but waiting on more parts before that gets done

is the navigator itself any good? worth the 300 bucks for it?

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

If you can find one for $300 then I'd jump on it... I got my one brand new for $500 which is about $150 what HKS in Australia can supply it for.

It's good for monitoring; knowing your injector duty; boost; water temp; RPM; speed; knock and unfortunately on the V Pro that's all it's good for...

The LCD screen could've done with an upgrade to say A'Pexi AVCR Style - too dull to see clearly during the day/night. *could just be my eyes*

Overall; I was under the impression that you could use it to tune the V Pro; or even at least set the A/F Correction Value but nope - not on ours.

Hopefully later on :mellow:

GT-R LM Proficient

GT-R LM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok does the navagator work on every fconV or just pro versions?

are the wiring plugs the same betwwen fconV and fconV pro? eg can i unplug my fconv and install a fconv pro to that harness? or do they differ?

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

The navigator will actually work better on the non-V Pro versions of the F-CON as you will be able to EDIT stuffz.

I'm pretty sure the wiring harness would be the same for all the F-CON version.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...