Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know. before you say it, i have used the search.

What i need to know is if i cut sire #53 on the ecu, however i have heard that this disables your HICAS. Since i like HICAS how else can i remove it, or will cutting the #53 output fix this, Has anyone done this? If so does it work.

ALSO how do i remove the Boost cut and how does the boost cut work. I was going to get one off these, Gizzmo FCD,

http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/view_...hp?product=GFCD

But i have no idea where to get one here in OZ. Are these worth it, and do they work well.

How does the boost cut work and when does it come on or how is it determined by the ECU that it needs to be on.

OK thanks. This is a bit urgent, i need to get the car ready for track in two weeks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129402-speed-cut-and-boost-cut/
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention that it is a 95 R33 GTST.

I have a friend who is a wiz with electronics, so he can make something for me, just not sure how the boost and speed cut work?

Can somone clarify how the speed and boost cuts wort on a R33?

Boost cut is the wrong term for it, as the 'cut' has nothing whatsoever to do with boost/pressure levels.

The right term is "Rich and Retard" - do searching in the forum on this term instead of "boost cut" and you may find better, more technical answers, especially from Sydneykid.

Basically when you turn up the boost on the RB25DET, your fuel/air mixtures will be very rich at the top end (down to AFR of 8-9). The ECU will then retard the engine as a reaction to overly rich fuel/air mixtures.

The new Turbosmart FCD works a charm so I've heard; perhaps call them up and get some more details on it.

The Speed Cut can be removed by simply cutting the wire; look up the ECU pinout manual to find out which one.

only problem is i have no money for a PFC, but enough left to get a SAFC II, plus sometimes these come up cheep.

UPPPSS i better tell my mate not to cut the wire, he was goign to do it, but has an auto.

Thanks mate.

Either way, would using a SAFC II to lean out the mixture, fix the boost cut retard?

a mate of mine cut a speed wire (don't know which 1) and it got rid of his speed cut.

as for rich and retard, a safc won't get rid of it. it has nothing to do with air/fuel mixtures. it is to do with the amount of air passing through the airflow meter at any given rpm. it isn't just when you get to a certain pressure it cuts out. the amount of airflow might be ok for 4000rpm, but its too much at 3000rpm, so the ecu kills the engine for a second to slow the turbo down. then the engine will kick back in and continue on as if nothing has happened. you don't lose power after it has happened, just for the time that it kills the motor. when mine would do it it would proceed to light the tyres up down the road when it kicked back in if i was in first or second gear.

i would also have to suggest the new turbosmart fcd over any of the others i have seen, as it has a set of instructions just for skylines.

but ultimately a full ecu, or a remapped ecu would be better. i picked up a remapped r33 ecu for $200. it was remapped in japan. it has no speed cut, higher rev limiter and no airflow protection.

So the cut, feels like a missfire then, or what? The car will be in Tassie on Monday, and as soon as it comes in, it's getting a new IC, new exhaust, boost regulator, fuel pump. I am planing on running 10-12psi on the stock turbo for now.

What are my chances of incountering boost cut, and is there an easy way to get rid of it.?????????????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...