Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi just curious on if I should be using a thicker engine oil to maintain my new turbo.

I just thought I would need a thicker oil because it wont breakdown as easier as say a 10w30 oil to a 5w50.

Would I need the thicker oil?

a 5w50 has more chance of breaking down than 10w30. the bigger the difference between the first and second number, the more chance it has of breaking down. you also have to take into account what oil the rest of the engine needs. the standard oil is only 7.5w30.

So I guess a 10w30 oil would be a lot better then 5w50?

all other things being equal, yes. I ran Motul 8100 5W40 in my R31 and it was great. Haven't had to change the oil in the 33 yet I think they put some castrol shit in there (still synthetic, but I'm not a fan of castrol oils)

a 5w50 has more chance of breaking down than 10w30. the bigger the difference between the first and second number, the more chance it has of breaking down. you also have to take into account what oil the rest of the engine needs. the standard oil is only 7.5w30.

you are talking about the VII content which is added to POA based oils to help get the spread. VIIs are not a lubricant and break down more quickly under stress which is not great. If you use a high quality Ester based oil such as redline or motul 300v they claim not to use VII additives. True or not, they def. use less and they have a range of better properties than most sync. oils on the market.

If money was not problem, I would use a Redline product...10W30-40 I use a 40...seems excellent. I use a 30 in my FTO...You will be fine with both of those products.

What is the problem with Castrol oil?

Has anyone had any experiences with their new castrol edge?

Is it safe to use a 0w40 oil? cars only got under 70,000kms on the clock

Edited by aquariuz6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...