Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've managed to get better fuel economy lately with the new exhaust. On a combination of country and mainly city driving, I've managed to squeeze out about 450km from a tank.....and thats fairly normal driving. :P Only got horny a couple of times! LOL :happy::)

yes there was a vq25det available on series one m35 stageas new model currently for sale does not offer this engine anymore was 3 or 4 different models to choose from in this configuration if you want to find out more about engine, drivetrain and transmission information this website is a good place to start

http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog

So from all accounts the driveline is pretty much bulletproof unless you start doing silly things :rolleyes: , Just wondering as well, are there used by dates on other parts of the car so to speak? Ie does the suspension normally go at 180,000? brakes etc? I take it the HICAS lasts a long time usually? I have 4ws on my mx6 and I know mazda charges crazy money for a new rack, Is it the same with nissan?

thx

Edited by CeJay

man i could only wish of seeing 400 on a full tank ...last time i topped up..managed 358km from click of the bowser till my car was practically running on fumes. Looks like i desperately need to get a safc installed.

Fuel economy is very dependant on your mods and your driving style.

I drive my stag to work every day (stop-start peak hour traffic in adelaide, north east suburbs into town and back).

Its a S2 auto and these days I get around 12.5 - 13.5L/100km and I do usually have a heavier-than-normal right foot... :stupid:

I also have a hiflow turbo now (very restricted by stock exhaust - but thats a good thing for me until i can afford to upgrade the fuel management/cooling - some of you may have read my thread a while ago) - and I'm thinking that the slightly extra turbo lag has actually improved my fuel economy - as I'm now off boost for most of my drive into town etc.

I'd like to see the effect of this on the freeway at 100-110km/h too as my turbo is hardly spinning at 2400rpm which is where it sits at 100km/h. The car is still much quicker than before too, the turbo comes on hard at around 3000-3500rpm and goes great even with the stock exhaust. Its running 8psi but I'd estimate that to be roughly equivalent to 10-11psi with the stock turbo - hard to say really.

But yeah for a S2 with the usual mods and somewhere under 180awkw I dont think its unreasonable to be able to get under 15L/100km. It really depends how you want to drive it. I dont mean for you not to enjoy your car, but just limit the amount of times you put your foot to the floor. Open throttle is where the fuel disappears quickly. :unsure:

Other than that, my advice - price up a few stags online, work out whether you want a S1 + mods or S2 (usually lower km's, and ~20kw more than S1 stock) and then get one!! you wont regret it! :mad:

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm currently awaiting a report on this stagea http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=7464 . Does anyone have any tips about what I should look for in the report, and in the pics?

thx

chris

  CeJay said:
I'm currently awaiting a report on this stagea http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=7464 . Does anyone have any tips about what I should look for in the report, and in the pics?

thx

chris

ask for aditional pics and look at pedals etc as to see if it matches mileage etc i got mine like that they had about 50 pics of it all different angles etc and i recon it was excelent for the price.ill soon know hey compliance shop thinks its all ok

  CeJay said:
I'm currently awaiting a report on this stagea http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=7464 . Does anyone have any tips about what I should look for in the report, and in the pics?

thx

chris

looks really nice mate, has the dayz bodykit, clear side indicators and eyelids...if you buy it and dont want the eyelids i'll take em off your hands :P

Doesn't look as I'll get this one, as the dealer has told j-spec they can't inspect the vehicle atm, due to an "engine problem" which they haven't had the time to fix, they can check it after its been fixed though...... :D thats encouraging... not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
×
×
  • Create New...