Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I have a 95 type M R33 and i have a sunroof.

A question, when it rains what happens to the water if it gets into the sun roof channel. It seams like the back of my sunroof does not quite sit flush with the roof of the car, and if you press down on the sunroof a gap forms in the seal and the roof.

Is there any way of adjusting the roof to sit higher or something.

Has anyone got a pdf or something showing how this can be done. Some pics would be nice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130589-r33-sunroof-question/
Share on other sites

You can place extra spacers where the sunroof bolts up to the rails.

All you need to do is take the two plastic covers off, which are accessable from the underside of the sunroof and you'll see where the spacers are... just place more until it forms a better seal... I did the same.

If however, your sunroof seal looks worn and is cracking, i'd advise you to replace it as if you get water between that and the sunroof glass bit, the frame around the glass will rust (i had to replace mine).

As for where does the water go, there are drainage holes at each far corner of the sunroof frame, they allow the water to run out through hoses.

hope this helps

cheers

Liz.

HI can you bit a bit more specific in regards to the plastic cover part, not sure what you mean. I only have had the car for 3 days.

The seal looks great, no probs there, i just figured there would be an easy fix on the rail itself.

Do you have any scaned photos of the manual or anythign like that. I have a pdf on cd but i left it behind.

How do you actually remove the sunroof glasso out of the tracks, i need to clean the rails properly, the old greas sux.

Thanks

Yeah no worries.

Ok.. if you jump in the drivers seat and look from that angle you'll see a plastic screw on each side of the sunroof, undo them both and you'll find that the plastic cover will be able to be popped off.

Once you see how to do that, there is just three bolts on each side that you'll need to undo, after that, the glass bit of the sunroof just lifts out.

Sorry, I don't have any photos and i don't have the car anymore tog et any. But you should be able to see how to do it, just look for the plastic screws and you'll see the rest easily.

cheers

Dam it, ok so i get in the seat, and look towards the front or the side or back.

are the two plastic screws easily visable, i can't find anythign there.

Are you meaning the cover that has the swithes on it?

dam it sorry mate, like i said i have only had the car for 3 days.

Dam it, ok so i get in the seat, and look towards the front or the side or back.

are the two plastic screws easily visable, i can't find anythign there.

Are you meaning the cover that has the swithes on it?

dam it sorry mate, like i said i have only had the car for 3 days.

look directly up at the glass... and then look to the left and right of the glass and towarsd teh back of it, you'll soon see the covers and the plastic screw, one on each side.

if you still can't find it and you are near your car, pm me your number and head out there and I'll call and talk you through it.

don't worry, took me ages to work it out myself lol.

hay, ok so i had a look, and the only screws i see, are located on the sunroof plastic, on the actual glass part.

Does your sunroof go in and out and up and down, cos i am sure there must be a adjustment somwhere to do it, what i do for now, is once closed, simply bump the up swithc a bit and it's fine.

those are the screws that you need to undo to get to where you can place the spacers.... the glass will just lift out once you undo those screws, and the bolts that are hidden by them... you'll see the spacers I'm talking about once in there.. just need to find another spacer (or make do)

There is no adjustment to do other than what i have mentioned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...