Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

im going to fit my whole exhaust system tommorow and i noticed that the front pipe doesnt have the heat shield like the original one. Should i wrap up the front pipe with heat shield wraps or not? Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130659-heat-wraps-on-the-exhaust-systems/
Share on other sites

If the dump pipe is mild steel then the wraps will make it rust quicker then normal.

You can also try to cover the general area with metal sheets like the orginal - nice stuff to use is the heat sheild that comes on AU Falcons - you can buy uncut sheets of it from places like Repco. It has a nice waffle pattern.

ohh sorry guys all my stuff is made out of SS. I also heard some people said that it might damage the SS in the long run cos when we use the heat wraps its actually keeping the heat in not dipersing out.

Shoould i wrap up my dump pipes as well. They are Hkss and made out of SS as well. THanks again guys

Edited by stasis
cos when we use the heat wraps its actually keeping the heat in not dipersing out.

This is generally the point - to keep the heat in. I am led to believe that keeping the heat in makes the exhaust gases flow faster. Conversely, as they cool they slow down. High flow is important for the first few feet of the pipe after the turbo - which is why you will notice an increase in torque when you put on a 3" dump/front.

The main reason to use some form of insulation is the keep heat out of the engine bay - noticed where your A/C pipes are? Noticed how hot the A/C gets when you hold it on boost for awhile?

The front pipe is under the car and subsequently exposed to the elements so any form of wrap will absorb a lot of moisture and is open to getting hit/scrapped.

The major problem with a metal heat shield is stopping it from rattling.

I dont see how you can wreck SS with wraps, that is why everyone uses it. It just looks nicer and more hardcore when it can be seen.

are you sure that stock exhaust for the 260rs are good for 300kw? my dump pipe are the ones with the wastegate 3" , front pipe is 3" and its got written on it for "competition use only" and the exhaust is also 3" and the out let is 190mmx90mm.

i think i would definetely wrap the front pipe just to protect it from hitting the bumps and scratcehs.

I dont think you understood what I said.

I said id wrap an exhaust manifold, but the stocks are ment to be good for 300awkw anyway.

Exhaust system goes as such

Chamber -> Exhaust Manifold -> Turbo -> Dump pipe -> Front pipe -> Cat -> Catback

As far as wrapping a front pipe, well, let me put it to you this way. When I made my turbo/manifold glow, it was glowing bright red, but the dump pipe was not glowing at all. This suggests that most of the heat is in the turbo/exhaust manifold, meaning it makes sense to wrap these things and not the front.

Protection? Mate, if you sratch a steel pipe, it doesnt affect performance. Its not like 2mm of fabric would protect it anyway if you were doing decent damage anyway (aka, hitting a rock or something)

I dont think you understood what I said.

I said id wrap an exhaust manifold, but the stocks are ment to be good for 300awkw anyway.

Exhaust system goes as such

Chamber -> Exhaust Manifold -> Turbo -> Dump pipe -> Front pipe -> Cat -> Catback

As far as wrapping a front pipe, well, let me put it to you this way. When I made my turbo/manifold glow, it was glowing bright red, but the dump pipe was not glowing at all. This suggests that most of the heat is in the turbo/exhaust manifold, meaning it makes sense to wrap these things and not the front.

Protection? Mate, if you sratch a steel pipe, it doesnt affect performance. Its not like 2mm of fabric would protect it anyway if you were doing decent damage anyway (aka, hitting a rock or something)

well you dont undertand what im saying. i dont care about the manifold thats why i didnt include it. All i want are the dump pipes, front to be wrapped why? The dumpsand front pipes is closer to the firewall in the 260rs and the front pipes runs directtly below that onto the firewall and right before the gearbox starts.

Now i dont want the extra heat to be transmitted into the cabin thus the wraps. Wrapping up the front i will take a picture of my original once its off to show why i want it wrapped up. I dpnt care about stone chips ETC. All i care its about heat and in conjunction with the litle protection that the pipe gets from the wraps. Now you see the picture?

This is what i learnt from my Rx8 as the heat penetrate to the cabiin and im reducing that as much as possible through wraps i hope

The main reason to use some form of insulation is the keep heat out of the engine bay - noticed where your A/C pipes are? Noticed how hot the A/C gets when you hold it on boost for awhile?

This is very true.. The a/c pipe does tend to get very very very hot!! If you have a spilt front/dump pipe and the wastage pipe is actually touching the a/c pipe this can be a disaster in the summer days..

So yes do wrap the pipe up.. Better to be safe than sorry..

The dumpsand front pipes is closer to the firewall in the 260rs and the front pipes runs directtly below that onto the firewall and right before the gearbox starts.

This is also the case in the r33s s2s.. It can actually burn all the sound deadending stuff under the car..

So i suggest we all wrap these pipes up to be safe.

i always wrap the dump pipe/s and front pipe down to the area where it starts running parralel to the ground to keep engine bay temps down, it costs like $25 to wrap it all and u can touch exhaust where tape is str8 after a dyno run and its not even burning hot so its definately worthwhile, and also protects the paintwork on the firewall area too :)

hows the best way to wrap it tight and wat do i use to stick them. I have decided to wrap the dump and front pipe although the dump pipe will be abit more ticky cos its much shorter and tighter.

if you have the money, get an exhaust shop to take it off, wrap it and fit it back up again, or do it yourself, you will get much better results if you do it when the dump/engine pipe is out of the car

get some metal zip ties, any good car shop (bursons) should be able to supply you with some. They are pretty expensive though.

Start wrapping from the top down, overlap each turn maybe 1/2 to 1/4 and any joints overlap a bit too.

cooltekmanifold.jpg

106_0652.JPG

If you are using it for protection, id put more metal zip ties.

cool thank guys got myself an idea . probably SS clamos on each ends and metal zip ties? what do you guys think? or not worth it just use metal zip ties?

Fitted the exhaust and the high flow cat yesterday Very good. more high end torque. And the note is very nice will try to upload it later.

\\\\\\\\\\\\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...