Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is a r33 series 2 i bought damaged and have been slowly fixing it up :)

this is it when it first arrived from the tow truck

DSCF0076.JPG

pic of it getting pulled apart

DSCF0083.JPG

engine been removed

engine%20out.JPG

engine%20out1.JPG

i then purchased another skyline series 2 for the parts which the whole car was f**ked accept the front end

parts1.JPG

i then got my car ready for trial fit of the front end ( doing cut and shut to firewall )

r33%20no%20front%20end.jpg

now i have it all clamped into postion and trial fit everything

front%20end%20trial%20fit.JPG

front end is currently getting sandblasted, followed by priming it, then welding on :)

thought some people might be interested anyway enjoy !

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How will you be rewelding it?

Are you taking it from the seem at around where the seats are?

did you unstitch it at the seem and slide it into the chassis rail?

The reason why I said it looked like a death trap is, I hope you're not just literally chopping off the damged bit and welding on the new front?

How will you be rewelding it?

Are you taking it from the seem at around where the seats are?

did you unstitch it at the seem and slide it into the chassis rail?

The reason why I said it looked like a death trap is, I hope you're not just literally chopping off the damged bit and welding on the new front?

those cuts on the rail are with the oxy as if im going to join to that

ive unpicked the rails to factory joins by drilling the spot welds abit under the firewall

i will be plug welding them back up with the mig as i cannot re spot them in that postion

no im not cutting near the seats which most people do

i am qualified panel beater btw.. :(

Well from what i've been told by VicRoads, they're illegal...

If they are in fact illegal, panel shops doing them all the time doesn't make them legal

that is a stupid thing to say.. i dont recall saying anything about panel shops making them legal

and as i previously said i dont know the vic laws nor do i really care.

To my understanding of metal properties, once you stress metal ( ie smashing the front end ) you loose alot of the metals strength then cutting and welding the chassis with a vertical join I dont see how it will be stronger.

Being a qualified panel beater just means you can do the job on the sly , My dad and brother are both qualified panel beaters and they both said its illegal straight away .

You would have been better getting another car where the chassis is okay (maybe a roll over ) then build from there.

im not here to question you or flame you mate. Hope your car turns out well. Wish i could be bothered taking two wrecks and making one car hehe. is it working out cheaper for you than buying 1 good one ?

keep the progress updated :D

Much respect for the sheer amount of work! Not my cup of tea though. I seriously hope that you will inform the potential buyer should you wish to sell in the future.

In relation to the chassis will there be any compromise in the chassis structual rigidity?

Edited by Remix-

Coming along well!

The thing i cant understand is if this is so "dangerous" as others have put it, how the hell do hot rods, utes, limos etc which have had an altered chassis mods still get rego and drive on the street??

I assume everything in this case will be strengthened and done properly

I think when people hear cut and shut they think backyard job automatically? Bit of a stereotype methinks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...