Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok heres my dilemma. ive got a 95 240 with a 97 ECR33 RB25DET swap. i just did the following modifications, Greddy intake plenum, infinity Q45 throttle body, FMIC, Greddy Type RS BOV, and walboro 255 fuel pump. When i cranked the car up white smoak poured out of the exhaust constantly while at idle and when the throttle was engaged. it smells like antifreeze but where the hell is it coming from. i need to get my car back running so any help on figuring out my problem will be greatly appreciated. thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130901-smoking-rb25det/
Share on other sites

ok so i went outside today and cranked the car and cheked the radiator to see what happened. at idle (which was 2000 today) a small amount of white smoke came from the exhaust. after accelerating lots of white smoke came out and black shit blew out of the exhaust also the coolant level dropped in the radiator. so im assuming its a headgasket problem correct?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130901-smoking-rb25det/#findComment-2424478
Share on other sites

ok so now that ive figured out its a headgasket problem what size gasket should i go with. ive got a place thats goin to do the work for me i just need to get the parts. i was looking at a 1.2 mm cosmetic or a 1.0mm greddy with ARP headstuds. what will be the best.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130901-smoking-rb25det/#findComment-2425541
Share on other sites

right now im running stock until i can get some more cash. and as for compression im not sure when its all said and done maybe in the 8.5:1 to 9:1. as for aftermarket turbo ive looked at alot and right now am looking at a T-67.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130901-smoking-rb25det/#findComment-2432045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...