Jump to content
SAU Community

Changed My 33 Climate Control Lights To Blue(pics)


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mine were monza triple LED's, so they have the 3 seperate LED's on top

justins were normal single style led's and the spread of light in his cluster is EXACTLY the same as in mine

got a link/pic of your LED's?

Yo Tracid that looks AWESOME!!!

Yeah i got cheapies, i think they were around 2 for 12 or 15 bux like yours DEZZ.

With the ones u got tracid do u need to solder a resister for them to work that good? Or u talking about he cheap ones? I reckon u and dezz need to whip out a nice camera and swap em over with some b4 and after fotos :laugh:

Yo Tracid that looks AWESOME!!!

Yeah i got cheapies, i think they were around 2 for 12 or 15 bux like yours DEZZ.

With the ones u got tracid do u need to solder a resister for them to work that good? Or u talking about he cheap ones? I reckon u and dezz need to whip out a nice camera and swap em over with some b4 and after fotos :laugh:

heheh Justin and I have ordered some of the 1's that Kon's shown us in his supra dash...when they get here we'll slap em in, but i'll try to get a decent before photo (my cluster always looks worse in the photos than it does in real life)...if these 1's that kon's shown us work, then we can safely say its the type of LED and not the different clusters :rofl:

when you say with the same LED's (in the white pic), can you change the colour of them or something? sorta like those ones that go from green to orange or whatever...

How did you black out the red/yellow line when you had the blue ones in??

when you say with the same LED's (in the white pic), can you change the colour of them or something? sorta like those ones that go from green to orange or whatever...

How did you black out the red/yellow line when you had the blue ones in??

nah sorry what i meant was that they r the same type LED's from the US supplier

and about the yellow/red not coming through its just how it is, the yellow/red doesnt let the blue light through though if i turn highbeams on it does

Edited by TracidTrax
these r the ones i bought, c how they have 4 LED's facing all direction's?

WLED-x5_mm.jpg

http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/bulb_specs.htm

Suk LEDS...looking for ones like these for ages...T10s by the dimentions...These already have the resistor and are pretty much a direct replacement in the holder...might need some cutting of the wedge, can u confirm??

Ah yeah I know what you mean, howcome it works when you put the highbeams on though?

i think its cause when i turn on the highbeams it emiitts the standard white light and the white goes throught the yellow/red tacho lines

Suk LEDS...looking for ones like these for ages...T10s by the dimentions...These already have the resistor and are pretty much a direct replacement in the holder...might need some cutting of the wedge, can u confirm??

yep theres no need to solder resistors to these ones or cut anything to size. Just take out the stock bulb from the wedge and replace with LED

damn $10 per LED :D

how many do you need to replace all the ones in an R33 dash??

5

they're really not that much more expensive than the ones you buy at autobarn...$14 for 2...so $7 each or $10 for 1... not much difference :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...