Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quick question for the forum. On a completly stock r33 no mods whtsoever, how many pounds of boost does the turbo make? The stock boost guage reads in mercury mm i think what does tht translate to on tht?

Roughly...

~5PSI < 4500rpm

~7PSI > 4500rpm

+7 mm/Mg is like 14PSI If im not mistaken.

Though the stock Boost guage isnt that accurate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131994-r33-stock-turbo/#findComment-2444185
Share on other sites

Without boost controller, stock as a rock car?? if so its around 7-8 psi, if you want to know much boost is it capable of i wouldn't go over 13psi, i've read that the exhuast wheel, being made from ceramic , will denonate from anything over 13psi and up.

S2 R33 you get what they call R&R rich and retard, at about 10psi basically the stock computer reads the extra boost as excessive air flow and doesn't understand whats going on so to protect the motor it richens the AF and retards the timing, but then again some people don't get it and run upto 12psi.

If you have a PFC you won't get it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131994-r33-stock-turbo/#findComment-2444186
Share on other sites

Roughly...

~5PSI < 4500rpm

~7PSI > 4500rpm

+7 mm/Mg is like 14PSI If im not mistaken.

Though the stock Boost guage isnt that accurate.

What do you mean is not that accurate? So on the stock boost guage the needle should never be up to +7?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131994-r33-stock-turbo/#findComment-2444273
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...