Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah sometimes burnt discs dont get read. I have that problems sometimes with my sony head unit (came with the car) - but after i push reset it works.....

works find with original cds though. Try yours with originals - it should be ok.

Some car CD players have trouble if the disc is not burnt with the 'Disc at Once' option ie you use track at once, multi-sessions or change the track spacing time from the default 2 seconds. as was mentioned earlier try a commercial disc to check the operation. Usually it is the 'track at once' option that causes it not to work on older alpine head unit.

make sure you're not using re-writable blanks. and also burn at a slower speed, that sometimes makes the tracks easier for the laser to read. and close or end session on the cd so it's playable in standalone players. but if all u have at home are burnt cd's, then i'm sure you already know all this. :)

Edited by Munkyb0y

Could be one of several suggestions. For HU's that don't officially support CD-R discs, you might need to check:

Disc-At-Once (DAO) sometimes helps.

The type of disc... i.e the colour of the surface. (silver or blue.. some lasers cannot read off blue discs because they don't reflect as much as silver ones)

The burn speed. My old Kenwood didn't read anything that was burnt over 8X. Again, it's a laser/tracking issue. Original Playstations had this too, where you had to burn onto black discs at 2X for them to read.

So, silver disc, 4X, disc at once. If it still doesn't work, your HU just won't read CD-Rs.

could it be the mulitsession thing when i burn?

definately dont use multisession.

you need to 'close' the disc / 'end' the session. otherwsie standalone players wont read it unless they can read mp3.

another thing, you're not burning an iso (data) disc full of mp3's are you? coz u need to select audio cd, and your burning program will convert the mp3s to the correct file type for standalone players.

kk?

definately dont use multisession.

you need to 'close' the disc / 'end' the session. otherwsie standalone players wont read it unless they can read mp3.

another thing, you're not burning an iso (data) disc full of mp3's are you? coz u need to select audio cd, and your burning program will convert the mp3s to the correct file type for standalone players.

kk?

yup, not a noob here :laugh:

cheers for all your help mate.. Using nero to do a mp3 cd..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...