Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tried the amuse s2000 and fark that thing is quick out of the box!!! could only manager a 55.504. tired a wing on the fd but it felt worse, tried to change the suspensiong but still felt like crap. took wing off and tweaked it a bit more and managed a 54.191!!! 53 seconds here we come.

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

53 seconds here we come.

beatcha to it! I put a wing on my 738bhp '89 GTR - 53.829!

then I decided to try other GTRs to see if any can get more power.

GTR VSpec N1 '93 749bhp 54.003 with wing. haven't tried any others yet.

Also got a Honda NSX '01 with 462bhp and wing to 54.673. Not bad for the power its got. Can't seem to turbo any of the NSX's :)

IM A NERD NOW.

51.86 in the koingseggC8XS(whatever it is) how ever u spell it in forza.

does it count?

from a different game on a different platform in a non-JDM car? yeah, no worries! sounds like a fair comparison!

beatcha to it! I put a wing on my 738bhp '89 GTR - 53.829!

then I decided to try other GTRs to see if any can get more power.

GTR VSpec N1 '93 749bhp 54.003 with wing. haven't tried any others yet.

Mind telling me your set up's for these 2 cars to get these times?

beatcha to it! I put a wing on my 738bhp '89 GTR - 53.829!

then I decided to try other GTRs to see if any can get more power.

GTR VSpec N1 '93 749bhp 54.003 with wing. haven't tried any others yet.

Also got a Honda NSX '01 with 462bhp and wing to 54.673. Not bad for the power its got. Can't seem to turbo any of the NSX's :rofl:

fark that is quick for a 4wd car! i find that all the 4wd cars i drive have too much understeer to run quick times but now i stand corrected! tried the r34 v2 N1 with about 700ps or something close to that and could only manage a low 55. i think i had the suspension a little too hard for sports tyres but with 12kg spring front and rear

Mind telling me your set up's for these 2 cars to get these times?

here you go. try them out and see how you go...

both have Sport Soft tyres of course. I won't list every part I bought because its enough typing already, just assume its done unless I specifically say it isn't. I never use NOS, and have never used the weight balance settings either - both of those feel like cheating...

Nissan Skyline GTR '89

738bhp/1215kg

just fully modify the engine (no NOS) Turbine Kit: Original

get all the driveline bits (triple clutch, race flywheel, carbon driveshaft) except:

LSD: standard (changing them on GTR makes them understeer like a dog)

AYC Controller: none

Variable Centre diff: none

Weight Reduction: Stage 3, no cage (incr rigidity), no body refresher plan

Brake Controller: none

SETTINGS:

Suspension: Original

spring rate: 6.3 7.8

ride height: 74 74

damper: 9 9

camber: 3.2 0.8

toe: -2 0

stabiliser: 3 3

Transmission: Fully Customisable

auto setting 21

2.476 1.683 1.245 0.971 0.773 final drive 4.111

Downforce: 30 32

NISSAN Skyline GTR VSpec N1 '93

749bhp/1249kg

fully mod engine with no NOS, Turbine Kit: Original

get all the driveline bits (triple clutch, race flywheel, carbon driveshaft) except:

LSD: standard (changing them on GTR makes them understeer like a dog)

AYC Controller: none

Variable Centre diff: none

Weight Reduction: Stage 3, with cage (increase rigidity), and body refresher plan.

SETTINGS:

Suspension:Original

spring rate: 8 10

ride height: 76 76

damper: 8 8

camber: 3.2 0.8

toe: 0 0

stabiliser: 4 4

Transmission: Fully Customisable

auto setting 10

3.355 2.316 1.716 1.331 1.081 0.919 final drive 4.111

Downforce: 30 28

here you go. try them out and see how you go...

both have Sport Soft tyres of course. I won't list every part I bought because its enough typing already, just assume its done unless I specifically say it isn't. I never use NOS, and have never used the weight balance settings either - both of those feel like cheating...

Nissan Skyline GTR '89

738bhp/1215kg

just fully modify the engine (no NOS) Turbine Kit: Original

get all the driveline bits (triple clutch, race flywheel, carbon driveshaft) except:

LSD: standard (changing them on GTR makes them understeer like a dog)

AYC Controller: none

Variable Centre diff: none

Weight Reduction: Stage 3, no cage (incr rigidity), no body refresher plan

Brake Controller: none

SETTINGS:

Suspension: Original

spring rate: 6.3 7.8

ride height: 74 74

damper: 9 9

camber: 3.2 0.8

toe: -2 0

stabiliser: 3 3

Transmission: Fully Customisable

auto setting 21

2.476 1.683 1.245 0.971 0.773 final drive 4.111

Downforce: 30 32

NISSAN Skyline GTR VSpec N1 '93

749bhp/1249kg

fully mod engine with no NOS, Turbine Kit: Original

get all the driveline bits (triple clutch, race flywheel, carbon driveshaft) except:

LSD: standard (changing them on GTR makes them understeer like a dog)

AYC Controller: none

Variable Centre diff: none

Weight Reduction: Stage 3, with cage (increase rigidity), and body refresher plan.

SETTINGS:

Suspension:Original

spring rate: 8 10

ride height: 76 76

damper: 8 8

camber: 3.2 0.8

toe: 0 0

stabiliser: 4 4

Transmission: Fully Customisable

auto setting 10

3.355 2.316 1.716 1.331 1.081 0.919 final drive 4.111

Downforce: 30 28

wow you run really soft suspension. on the rx7 i run 12 and 10 spring and 10 and 9 damper. Will have to try no lsd in the gtr and see how i go. got a bit closer to the 53 last night, 54.087! anyone tried messing with the brake bias with any success?

  • 2 weeks later...

been trying other GTR's and found a winner- R34 GTR 53.007!

A 52 should be possible but it will have to be a pretty damn good lap. not an easy car to drive though - it needs the throttle fed in progressively out of corners and how well you do that makes or breaks the lap time.

i think we have a winner!!!!

52.098!!!!!!!!!!!! on sports tyres!!!!! in a rear wheel drive car!!!!!

the gillet vertigo race car '04. mod it full up, leave all the setting stock except for the gear ratios at about 11, traction control at 3, and no NOS

and i'd can say for sure that 51's are possible with this car. i have been faster to the second corner than the ghost of that time, but f**k up the entry and run too wide, or cut to sharp and hit the ripple strip.

Edited by mad082
other people have done laps in non jap cars. and i class the vertigo in the same class as any car bought from a tuning company (not original manufacturer).

the game specifies if it is a race car in the car's title - eg "Gillet Vertigo Race Car". Its in the same class as the other race cars in the game. You won't find "race car" in the title of any of the other cars we've used.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...