Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It all depends on what else is done to the car, and what you use the car for.

Stored flywheel inertia and some clutch slip is the only way to get ANY manual transmission car moving from complete standstill without stalling. But so very much depends on available engine torque, vehicle weight, and overall gear reduction in first gear.

Once you are moving, the flywheel is nothing but extra weight and extra inertia you no longer need. A circuit race car is not normally doing constant starts, so a very light flywheel is usually an advantage.

A drag race car with excellent traction will launch harder with a heavy flywheel, but that same flywheel may slow down the rate of acceleration once it has launched.

Turbo engines are special, because they usually have minimal torque when off boost, particularly when starting off. If your engine is laggy and has a fairly high boost threshold, a light flywheel is going to make starting off even more difficult than it already is.

If you drive the car every day in heavy traffic, a very light flyweel is quite likely going to be a real pain in the arse, especially with a highly modified turbo engine.

In flat places like Melbourne, it will not be quite so bad as in hilly Sydney. Starting off facing up hills needs plenty of flywheel.

Once you are moving, the flywheel is nothing but extra weight and extra inertia you no longer need. A circuit race car is not normally doing constant starts, so a very light flywheel is usually an advantage.

A drag race car with excellent traction will launch harder with a heavy flywheel, but that same flywheel may slow down the rate of acceleration once it has launched.

Turbo engines are special, because they usually have minimal torque when off boost, particularly when starting off. If your engine is laggy and has a fairly high boost threshold, a light flywheel is going to make starting off even more difficult than it already is.

Its 'almost' a little contradictory but not quite. The initial take off may require a few more rev's but once past this the car will (as I noticed) rev up quicker and feel as if it actually has a little more off boost acceleration. I didn't notice the more rev's requirement from a standing start under normal driving conditions, it was only when launching the car.

As I think I said earlier I found the gutless rb20 easier to launch with the lightened flywheel, it did require more rev's other wise it would bog but launching at the correct rpm it felt as if it was easier to control any wheel spin that occured and it simply got off the line cleaner.

An R32 GTS4.... I would most definitely stick with the stock flywheel, they require an almost redline launch not to prevent bog, in this circumstance a lightened flywheel would cause launching problems as a result possibly slower 0-100 and 1/4 times. As we all know the faster we can get up to speed earlier the quicker our 1/4 will be. The old Auto VLT's are a prime example of this running mid 10's with only ~300rwkw.

I'm with Cubes on this one, and is the exact reason I'm going for a lightened flywheel when I change my clutch in the next few months hopefully. The RB20 is a dog for me driving into/out of the city every morning, stop start conditions, and off boost acceleration is very poor.

Also of note, what I picked up a few weeks back. The weight of a flywheel is not as important as the distance that weight is from the centre. I believe it is a radius ® squared relationship. Hence a 10kg flywheel with a large part of it's weight on the extremities will be a lot harder to turn than a 10kg flywheel with most of its weight near the centre. This is why you see standard flywheels being lightened with holes/removal of steel as near the extremities as you can get. This has big benefits even though it may only lighten the flywheel by a few kg's.

Fixxxer :D

I have a 4.5kg flywheel in my car.

Positives:

- engine revs easier

- revs drop really quickly

- less engine braking

Negatives:

- revs drop quickly between gear changes

- need revs to get the car off the line

- meh..

I like it.

  • 4 weeks later...

Slightly cheaper price for what looks like the same item here;

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=326_367_374

Does anyone know the weight of the RB25DET standard flywheel?

Also Aluminium @ 5.0kg for around $520 or Chrome-Moly @ 5.5kg for $100 less???

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...