Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

just wondering anybody tried the boost p8 by United before. United its owned by Mobil now. This was breifly mentioned in the force induction section.

It got me thinking. If people is talking about converting to Lpg because of the fuel cost, why not use the United Boost 98? I called the box Hill Branch in Victoria and they wer selling it for $1.39/lts of the boost 98. Boost 98 got 10% ethanol in it.

I have asked this question on the on ther thread. Has anybody tried it long term? My bro said that Nissan engine are not compitable with ethanols. And theres no listing for Nissan as well in the United website. Hondas are not included as well.

FOe $1.359 its preety cheap compared to other 98 Ron fuels by about 8-10 cents i believe. Also since Ethanol is corrosive wouldnt be good to keep the engine clean as well? Like the Biodiesel as well it will keep the engine clean. Optimax Extreme got 5% Ethanol in it but its damn dear i think when i tried it a few weeks ago it was $1.50/ltr. But thats 100 Ron though. But is it worth it compared to the Unite Boost 98 and the Optimax Extreme and the Normal 98Ron and the Lpgs.

ANother thing is on the other thread they wer saying the engine has to be tuned to suit the fuel in ths case the ethanol. Couldnt we program 2 maps into the Power FC so when you use the boost 98 you switch to a specific map and switch again when you are using normal 98 Ron?

Heres the lin to Unite , it will show you where Boost 98 is available australia wide

http://www.unitedpetroleum.com.au/distribu...8-locations.asp

All this just tyring to reduce our fuel costs. See what you guys think.

Edited by stasis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I still think the issue with ethonol is the effects on the fuel system, pumps, injectors, seals, etc. I reckon a pfc tuned to use this fuel would be fine, but would everything else cope with constant use?

that we dont know. I think the government is dong trials in different states to study the long term effects on the cars at the moment. So... Im thinking of trying it on my next tank of fuel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2460596
Share on other sites

Ive tried a few tanks of it, generally filled up when still had a qtr of normal BP/Mobil 98 fuel in the tank. It feels nice to drive, is responsive, etc....... once I put in half a tank with no other mix of fuel, and it seemed ok - but I decided at the time that I wouldnt do that again, as Id rather do a 50:50 mix to be "safe"r.

edit: shell 100 ron looks to be coming to SA soon - so I wouldnt mind trying a 50/50 of Boost98 from Liberty and Shell 100 ron fuel

Brendan

Edited by Tangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2460605
Share on other sites

Ive tried a few tanks of it, generally filled up when still had a qtr of normal BP/Mobil 98 fuel in the tank. It feels nice to drive, is responsive, etc....... once I put in half a tank with no other mix of fuel, and it seemed ok - but I decided at the time that I wouldnt do that again, as Id rather do a 50:50 mix to be "safe"r.

edit: shell 100 ron looks to be coming to SA soon - so I wouldnt mind trying a 50/50 of Boost98 from Liberty and Shell 100 ron fuel

Brendan

It could be the go. 50:50 Liberty/Shell. I've been using Liberty for a while and find it does drive smoothly,but if its better than Shell98 which is available on Mt Tamborine, I couldn't say.

As I've said before the Stagea is VERY smooth and responsive.

Time will tell :):)

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2460777
Share on other sites

I assume everybody has read my posts on using Optimax Extreme 100 ron in the R33GTST for the last 8 months (35 tank fills) or so. It is 5% ethanol and I have seen ZERO effect on any of the components, that’s injectors, hoses, fuel pumps, fuel filters etc are all perfect. All I see is more power and less knock.

I seriously doubt that 10% ethanol would have any effect on the components either. But it is easy to check for, stick a new fuel filter on and use the 10% ethanol continuously for a while, say a month, 5 or 6 tank fulls. Then remove the fuel filter, cut it open and check for foreign matter. If there isn’t any, then I’d say you have no problems.

:) cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2460871
Share on other sites

Then remove the fuel filter, cut it open and check for foreign matter. If there isn’t any, then I’d say you have no problems.

Wouldn't the concern be the effect of corrosion on fuel lines etc, rather than particles? Or are you saying the particles would be stopped by the filter?

Because my question would be how ethanol corrosion on rubber works anyway, because if it just liquifies it then you're not going to get any in the filter unless you've used it for a very very long time and caught sludge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2460902
Share on other sites

Hey SK, got a link to your thread? I wouldnt mind reading it.

They used to have 100RON BP Extreme here in rocky, now they dont, replaced with 95ron 5% ethonol blend :wub:

Time to learn how to use the search feature, try;

"Sydneykid"

"Extreme"

"Any date"

:ninja: cheers :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2461836
Share on other sites

Wouldn't the concern be the effect of corrosion on fuel lines etc, rather than particles? Or are you saying the particles would be stopped by the filter?

Because my question would be how ethanol corrosion on rubber works anyway, because if it just liquifies it then you're not going to get any in the filter unless you've used it for a very very long time and caught sludge.

What fuel lines are we talking about?

The steel ones? I don't believe ethanol has any affect whatsoever on steel.

The synthetic rubber ones? On the R33GTST that’s 5 really short pieces that are easily accessible;

Tanks/pump outlet to steel line

Steel line to fuel filter

Fuel filter to fuel rail

Fuel pressure regulator to steel line

Steel line to tank return

When I checked the fuel filter I removed #2 and #3. Any corrosion would show up as softness, loss of rigidity and thinner wall thickness. That’s a no to all three. Any flaking would show up as pieces trapped in the fuel filter. That’s a no to that one as well.

I have also removed, flushed and cleaned the injectors, plus I checked their flow and compared it to before we started using Optimax Extreme. Just in case something snuck past the fuel filters. Or the injectors themselves were somehow corroded or damaged by the ethanol. As you might have guessed, that’s a no to that one as well.

I haven’t measured the flow of the standard R33GTST fuel pump, but it still produces the same pressure (on the GReddy fuel pressure gauge) as it did before we started using Optimax Extreme. So that would indicate to me that some 2,000 litres of Optimax Extreme has had zero effect on the fuel pump

If I have forgotten anything that I should check, please let me know and I will gladly check it. I have asked Nissan why they won’t recommend ethanol, and the above were all the possible reasons they could give me.

:D cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2463917
Share on other sites

Hi all my hubby started this topic in the forced induction section.

And as he stated we have both noticed the considerable difference with both our cars.

Not just the fuel consumption side but also performance wise.

I was using shell fuel then swapped to bp and I was only getting maybe 200k to a full tank I now get 350-400k a tank. And I do not drive any differently. I have used boost98 for nearly 6 mths and will continue to do so. Also my fuel filter was changed before swapping to boost98 and it was full of crap and that was from using shell and bp fuel, don't know what kind of condition the new one is in but when this one is replaced I will let you know if I have any sludge inside..

Anyway that is my 2 cents worth, I spose it comes down to the fact each to their own if you find something that works for your car then stick with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2468123
Share on other sites

im trying the boost 98 on my next tank. One thing. My bor filled up my dad's HSV with the 95 United and i asked him any difference? He said its smotther ride. So just to let you guys know.

My theory is if this boost 98 is a pretty good fuel copared to the other 98 ron sucha as shell, Bos and Mobil. Why not use it.

@ advantages, less impact on the environment and you can hammer more cos you know your fuel is cheap. HAHAH!!. But thats me in the stage of denial soz guys i have to carcj this one cant help my self

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2468505
Share on other sites

Nissan continues to place a very high priority on effective environmental management and has taken a comprehensive approach to reducing CO2 emissions, developing fuel-efficient engines, highly efficient transmission systems, lightweight, high strength vehicle bodies as well as more aerodynamic vehicles with low air resistance. Examples of advancement by Nissan with this type of technology are evident in some recent new releases such as 350Z, Maxima and Murano.

Can my vehicle run on fuel containing ethanol?

Nissan vehicles manufactured from 1 January 2004 onwards are capable of operation on ethanol blends up to E10 (10% ethanol), providing the following conditions are met:

The fuel used (including ethanol-blend) meets the requirements of the Australian Fuel Quality Standards,

A credible history of servicing as per Nissan's recommended service schedule can be shown, and

Blending of the ethanol component to the petroleum component of the fuel has been properly made for example at a fuel refinery (ie there is no "splash"-blending of the fuel).

For Nissan vehicles manufactured prior to 1 January 2004, although capable of operation on ethanol-blended ULP, Nissan does NOT recommend the use of ethanol-blended fuel in these vehicles.

i hope it helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2469529
Share on other sites

Nissan continues to place a very high priority on effective environmental management and has taken a comprehensive approach to reducing CO2 emissions, developing fuel-efficient engines, highly efficient transmission systems, lightweight, high strength vehicle bodies as well as more aerodynamic vehicles with low air resistance. Examples of advancement by Nissan with this type of technology are evident in some recent new releases such as 350Z, Maxima and Murano.

Can my vehicle run on fuel containing ethanol?

Nissan vehicles manufactured from 1 January 2004 onwards are capable of operation on ethanol blends up to E10 (10% ethanol), providing the following conditions are met:

The fuel used (including ethanol-blend) meets the requirements of the Australian Fuel Quality Standards,

A credible history of servicing as per Nissan's recommended service schedule can be shown, and

Blending of the ethanol component to the petroleum component of the fuel has been properly made for example at a fuel refinery (ie there is no "splash"-blending of the fuel).

For Nissan vehicles manufactured prior to 1 January 2004, although capable of operation on ethanol-blended ULP, Nissan does NOT recommend the use of ethanol-blended fuel in these vehicles.

i hope it helps

So what? we can use it? Not recommended ia a very general temr isnt it? Well can we acutally use it or not?! Comeon guys!! Just want to set the record straight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132781-boost-98/#findComment-2469847
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...