Jump to content
SAU Community

Well I've Never Seen All 4 Off The Ground...

JaFF

By JaFF,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
We have just come online to have a quick sneak & thought it would be good to let everybody know what caused this massive wheel stand. We have just rebuilt the 600 ci motor & made a new sheet metal manifold which produced an extra 100 HP & 30 ft lbs for a new total of 1260 HP & 875 ft lbs.We also designed the manifold different to all previous manifolds which resulted in an unbelievable acceleration rate on the dyno, like nothing we had ever seen before.

Whilst testing the motor we also used VP SVO5 & this fuel has a lower spec gravity to C14+ which caused the floats to actually run slightly low. It took 3 runs for us to figure out why the car had not shown any more power or even quicker 60 ft times. This was due to the front jets being uncovered when wheel standing. After we raised the floats back up the engine did not stay at 6200 rpm off the start line for 2 seconds like previous, instead it went straight from 6200 to 6700 & continued to climb rapidly to 7500 whilst still moving upwards. This extra acceleration cause the wheelie bars to bend further up & bottom out on the rear of the car which actually cause them to bend & not hold the car down at all, like it has done for 3 years now.

When i left the line i knew that something was wrong in the wheelie bar department due to only seeing blue sky for way too long, but I knew if I got out of the throttle the car would come down & totally smash everything underneath, so I kept my foot on the throttle until it came back down totally. After the car settled I removed my foot only to realise that the throttle was actually stuck on full. I looked at the tacho & it was somewhere around 8600 & new the rev limited was set to 8700, so as soon as the limiter took hold of the motor I selected neutral & hit the kill switch to end this wild but exciting ride.

I will be online for another 10 minutes, please feel free to reply if you would like to ask any questions.

Trick & Mansweto Racing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...