Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh here in vic all the CTP stuff is incorporated in our yearly rego fee.

what u want is 3rd party/property insurance (some have a fire and theft option, usually up for $5000 damage, for an extra fee)

driving an import and being on your p's your best bet in vic would be to look at just cars (www.justcarinsurance.com.au)

enjoy

dude. CTP IS THRIRD PARTY. That's what it stands for. Compulsory Third Party

they're both "third party" CTP - compulsory third party. the other one is "Third Party Fire and Theft".

i was talking about both (id say ctp for greenslip as it removes the confusion)

CTP-covers damage to other persons

THIRD PARTY- covers damage to other's property (just car also have a fire and theft OPTION, which costs a little more)

considering your on your p's (as i am now, greens though). i did an online quote for THIRD PARTY FIRE and THEFT, and it turned out to be 565 for a 17k r33 series 2. no mods

for me, ctp greenslip is about 500 as well.

In NSW, a CTP greenslip is compulsory for vehicle registration, i guess its not compulsory in other states.

If you weigh up the pros and cons, having comprehensive insurance means that in 3 years time youd be able to buy another car already. however in the event where you do stuff up, then you have the added benefit of getting all your money back (if you add mods, and dont tell the insurance company, they WONT reimburse you, also your premium will go up). add to that a $2000 excess for a male under 25 driver with a performance car (this is all for just cars). and youll be paying $5000 a year if you make a claim.

your premium will also go up if you make a claim.

Comprehensive insurance is often not worth it for p platers.

My son bought a r32gtst for $10k

He priced comprehensive and best price was $3200 premium +$1000 basic excess + $1000 under 25 excess + $750 inexperienced driver excess so he decided against it.

After having his car on the road 14 months he had a crash which could have been considered a write off.

Everyone told him you should have been insured so he did the sums.

1st year premium 3200

2nd year premium (10%ncb) 2880

basic excess 1000

under25 excess 1000

inexperienced excess 750

Total insurance cost $8830

Also the insurance company would have kept the wreck which he could sell for at least $2500

In this case he is $1330 better off by not being insured.

Cheapest CTP...AAMI is pretty good. i'm 22 and was quoted 560 last year.. they're all pretty much the same.

For thrid party prop plus 5k fire & theft... i went with justcar for 548 but they've jacked up the price 100 this year to 648.

Wow which insurance company charges excess for inexperienced driver?? Thats insane..

I can't remember which company it was but the other companies charge it anyway and call it under 18 driver excess or whatever either way the excesses total nearly $3000 for an 18yo driver.

  • 4 years later...
  • 2 months later...

hey Jon,

I cannot get that price on the MAA website and also on AAMI website -substituting a 200SX as there's no skyline (couldnt be bothered to ring them), I get $693 from both websites - the MAA website I can list the R34GTT Skyline as an option.

Cheapest for me is QBE at $516.

How did you get $375? Thats impossible mate, can you please put up your website quote from the insurer here?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...