Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys,

I know this has been done on other forums, so lets get it going here.

It is a great way for us all to get an idea of what mods create what power on what cars. Only list performance/power related mods as that is what this thread is all about.

Here is mine.....

CAR:

R32 GTR

MODS:

Trust Airinx Filter Kit

Trust MX front pipes (2 x 75mm into 1 x 80mm)

Hi Flow 3"(80mm) Cat

Buddy Club Racing Spec III Exhaust (89.1mm through)

HKS Slide Cam Pulleys (cam gears) - IN and EX

Custom Bleed Valve

1.1 Bar Boost

DYNO RESULT:

240 Rear Wheel Kilowatts on RacePace Dyno Dynamics Dyno

QUARTER MILE TIME:

11.573 @ 117.89 mph (1.712 sec sixty foot)

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1335-power-output-and-14-mile-times/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R31 Nissan pintara station wagon

SPECS -

rb20det conversion

Full 3inch ****** (not going to give them any advertisement) Exhaust Inc trust style Dump pipe

Supra 7m front mount

****** Pod filter

Basic Turbo Smart bleed valve/ Apexi Dual sbc

Gts-x Front brakes and calipers

Laurel Wheels 15"

Standard rear suspension and diff (read - Sloppy and single spinner)

Performance -

13.8 @ 100 mph (12psi)

170 rwhp (9psi)

My last 1/4 time & rwkw fig's are in my sig' :)

The car has one or two mod's.

It was run on Falken 255/40/17's with 38psi tyre pressure.

I'll get around to taking it back to AIR for some new times soon.

Originally posted by BOOSTMEISTER

13.8  

You have got to be kidding right:uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh:  

I am sorry but is that possible????

Awesome effort if thats what you did....I must be a completely useless driver to only better that by .1 with 100hp more than you + I have a 85% locked diff?

it was on 12psi rather then 9 as it was dynoed on so probably had closer to 190 hp at the wheels and less boost bleeding.

It was done at the kwinana motorplex in perth after an international meet and the track was rather sticky. With minimal traction loss in 2nd and only a bit in 1st.

I have a timeslip though i dont have a scanner, it is real. Also the pintara may be slightly lighter then your car and have better diff ratio (read : 4.11)

13.8 with a RB20DET running an open wheeler and 12psi.

hrmm..

When i was running 12.5 PSI with fuel at around 12.1-12.5:1 (no over fueling) I made 152rwkw. Which is almost 204HP at the rears.

She didn't feel like a 13.8 sec car then and even now she doesn't with a FMIC and almost 1 bar of boost.

If I remember correctly I think the R32 GTS-T has a 4.3:1 diff ratio or is it 4.1 also?!?! I'm pretty sure its 4.3 btw.

i.e 50-55km's in first & approx 90-95 in second.

The R32 GTS-T Weighs around 1300kg's.

The Pintara wagon would weigh probably the same if not more I would think.

Before I had the FMIC fitted I noticed that it was easier to control wheel spin through first as it didn't kick as hard even on stock boost.

For example on stock boost with 225' 50's on the rear without the fmic the rear's would not spin now with the fmic boost kicks and wheel spins in first. On high boost there is no way i can put my foot flat. Taking off and holding it just past 1/4 throttle will cause the 225's with 29psi pressure to spin and squeel. Once it starts to spin there's almost no way that I can stop it, I usually short shift which causes it to spin in second quite a bit but it seems to pick up a bit better then stuffing around in first trying to get traction. And thats with LSD.. Good luck with an open wheeler.

Got a bit off topic didn't I.

Guest white180

hey guys :) i know i dont have a skyline but i thought id add my bit anyway : 1992 180sx

sr20det

5 speed

mods : full 3 inch exhaust turbo to tip kakimoto cat back front bit is a job done by a guy in bently full stainless dump pipe is a bit of 3 inch with a bit of an extra bit welded on to cover wastegate pipe

: bilstein front shocks and springs (read:stiff as ever) rear i dunno what they are but they are matching the front as far as height goes but arnt nearly as stiff

: pod airfilter k and n usual S***

: 14 psi by way of either ebc or turbosmart crappy little bleed valve but i was borroing the ebc from rb20lagwagon and he needs it so yeah u get that :)

: 16 inch volk racing wheels 16x6 front (205/60r16) 16x7 rear (225/55r16)

performance : before boost and front pipe on exhaust ie no dump pipe and no bleed valve or ebc my fastest 1/4 was 14.2 no dyno runs at that point

: after ebc and boost i have achieved 179.3 bhp@ wheels and it goes a hell of alot faster now too :D no run at the motorplex cause its shut down for the winter :) will let u know how i progress

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...