Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I have a intake leak somewhere around my last throttle body runner. Brake cleaner sprayed on the last return spring, that sits around the spindle, would cause the motor to pick up the lazy cylinder and idle smoothly.

Thinking it must be the spindle seal, iv removed all the TB's and found myself a problem; I cant seem to source the seals ( show in picture attached ) Iv gone to a few local specialty seals places, and have found ones similar, though they aren’t made of viton, hence fuel resistant. I’m currently waiting on a quote for 500 custom made viton seals.

Has any one had any luck sourcing these seals, as Nissan want over $3K for 3 brand new TB's.

I’m almost temped to replace them with non fuel resistant ones, as the race bearings that the spindles sit on are a pressed in sealed unit as well ( and actually probably do most of the sealing )

The leak in the end, I think might have been due to loose rear plenum bolts, those last 3 pr1cks underneath :) as I could see blackening of the plenum >> TB gasket and the brake cleaner would have entered THERE under idle vacuum.

I’m running out of options, thanks guys!!!!

- Michael

post-14713-1157789200.jpg

post-14713-1157789356.jpg

post-14713-1157789380.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133599-rb26-throttle-body-seals/
Share on other sites

search around for a second set of tb's for a couple of hundred bucks at the most if thats the part u reckon is leaking. have u checked nissan to see if they have some sort of seal to replace in that part of the tb? ive never heard of them leaking from the rear only the gasket surface areas :)

search around for a second set of tb's for a couple of hundred bucks at the most if thats the part u reckon is leaking. have u checked nissan to see if they have some sort of seal to replace in that part of the tb? ive never heard of them leaking from the rear only the gasket surface areas :)

I’m put off buying new tb's if i can just source half a dozen $2 seals. Nissan wont sell the seals, at the least, you need to buy 3 new tb's!

Yourself Google and this SAU's search button are hinting to me that a leak here is very rare, and possibly I was correct with the gasket leak then Hrrrrrrm. *ponders*

thanks for your thoughts Cruise

- M

I am pretty sure you will find it was just a gasket leak....put it all back, got those 3 bastards torqued up right and you should be fine.

Yup, that’s what im hoping, and worst case, that’s what im doing. Wanted to see if anyone’s heard bout this before, just in case there’s a similar seal made for ... cappuccino machines or pool chlorinators :(

Thanks Duncan

  • 2 weeks later...

I have had leaks from the mating surfaces due to bad contact. It sounds like birds chirping away in there! Make sure you have competely removed the old gasket material. Any left will create a leak. Use a razor blade to scrape it off being careful not to take a chunk out of the soft alloy. Nissan sell the gaskets for 3 dollars each.

  • 2 weeks later...

Personally I have never had a throttle shaft air leak on an RB26. It is usually the TB to inlet manifold gasket or the inlet manifold to head gasket. The most common problem is dowels the not lining up or bottoming out.

The bottoming out occurs when we have machined the gasket surfaces flat, without maching the dowels suitably. I have also seen too long bolts and/or bottomed out studs cause similar problems.

:) cheers :)

Personally I have never had a throttle shaft air leak on an RB26. It is usually the TB to inlet manifold gasket or the inlet manifold to head gasket. The most common problem is dowels the not lining up or bottoming out.

The bottoming out occurs when we have machined the gasket surfaces flat, without maching the dowels suitably. I have also seen too long bolts and/or bottomed out studs cause similar problems.

:( cheers :)

Thanks SK,

145 views of my thread, and no one has even heard of a TB spindle issue?

Exxcellent

Cheers!

- Michael

  • 2 months later...

This seems to be the only thread on this topic, so ill continue to update till its solved :stupid:

I went back to the place that could sell the non viton, similar shaped seal, Capital Bearings here in Fyshwick Canberra.

PBR 12377-

Unfortunately they are too tall by a good 3mm, are too tight a fit on the outside, and grip the spindle too tightly, im screwed on all fronts.

You can see in one of my photos there’s actually a spring around the inside sealing surface.

I’ve decided to leave the rest of the seals, just figure out a way to seal the ones, iv already played with.

I was thinking some nylon rod in a lath, some grooves, some o-rings…

There must be a seal somewhere that I can use, I might try overseas

- M

post-14713-1165591970.jpg

post-14713-1165591998.jpg

post-14713-1165592016.jpg

post-14713-1165592054.jpg

i thought i had a leak on my t-bodies once, seemed to pick up idle speeed when spraying the throttle shafts... ended up being the gasket between the head and the first part of the manifold. leaking at the back on number 5&6. was a bit more involved to remove, but sure did fix the problem. are those seals still soft, maybe reuse them and spray some silicone spray on to them to soften it up.

i thought i had a leak on my t-bodies once, seemed to pick up idle speeed when spraying the throttle shafts... ended up being the gasket between the head and the first part of the manifold. leaking at the back on number 5&6. was a bit more involved to remove, but sure did fix the problem. are those seals still soft, maybe reuse them and spray some silicone spray on to them to soften it up.

Hey Blur,

Yah, i actually think the leak is / was from the plenum to TB gasket, as there’s some black discoloration on the matting surface, as well as a distinct lack of ppl on this forum hearing of the issue.

My issue now is that I need to at least fix the seals i plucked outa the rear TB; that’s what these PBR seals where meant to fix.

Ditto on reusing, i destroyed them getting em out.

Thanks bud

M

I had the exact same when I first put my new motor in the car. It was a 'High Pitched Squeel' coming from number 5 and 6 throttle body.

I pulled off the whole plenum, replaced all the plenum to throttle body and throttle body to head gaskets with new ones and it was fixed 100%

The ones you get from Nissan now are thick 'organic'? ones, not like the oringinal thin metal ones. :miner:

Edited by CameronBNR32
  • 5 months later...

Well kids, newest installment.

Iv used some 800 wet&dry and sanded the seal down 3mm, iv then wrapped a rod ( the same diam as the spindle) in W&D and sanded the inside contact surface to relieve the tightness on the inside.

Lubed it all, pressed it in and manually moving the throttle plates gives the same amount of tension as the un modified ones!

Dummied it all up, and Bingo, a lot less throttle peddle tension.

Side Note:

There still was a lot of tension, and i found one of the rose jointed ends on the rods connecting to each spindle was seized. Carby cleaner and soaking in automotive mineral oil for 48h did little. Tonight i played with the movement a little and noticed the socket was only grabbing the sphere in one plane of movement... like it was "oval" shaped :D A dozen gentle smacks with a hammer has the sphere moving fine again! So Note to rem, if your rose joint is grabbing, make sure the socket hasn't distorted out of shape

Once my POS Datsun has fired back up, i will finally know if this has curred my leak

Hope this helps someone else

Mods: Maybe move this to the Maintenance section

I have the exact same problem with air leaking trough the throttle shaft gasket, but on a Q45 90mm throttle body. When it starts squealing at 0.6 bar pressure and at 0.9bar pressure the squeal is so high-pitchet I have to hold my ears. Really annoying! So I've ordered a new tb, I havent found a way of replacing those red seals on the shaft :D

I have the exact same problem with air leaking trough the throttle shaft gasket, but on a Q45 90mm throttle body. When it starts squealing at 0.6 bar pressure and at 0.9bar pressure the squeal is so high-pitchet I have to hold my ears. Really annoying! So I've ordered a new tb, I haven't found a way of replacing those red seals on the shaft :rolleyes:

Hey Sindre,

Get your digi camera in Macro mode onto the seals and let us have a look! Technically, i still had a lot of options with mine. I could have ground out the little press tabs, and pulled the sealed bearing from the unit. In the end, replacing the outside dust seal worked.

Cheers

Hey Sindre,

Get your digi camera in Macro mode onto the seals and let us have a look! Technically, i still had a lot of options with mine. I could have ground out the little press tabs, and pulled the sealed bearing from the unit. In the end, replacing the outside dust seal worked.

Cheers

So you found a part nr for the outer dust seals? I took the tb apart as much as I could but I could not figure out how to remove the axle and the read seals. So I drippet a couple drops of superglue in the red seals and refitted the tb, and set my boost down to 0.6bar so it doesnt leak so much while I wait for the new tb I've ordered. but when I change tb's and take the one with a leak out I can take som macro pictures of it. Im hoping the new tb come in the mail today or monday.

So you found a part nr for the outer dust seals? I took the tb apart as much as I could but I could not figure out how to remove the axle and the read seals. So I drippet a couple drops of superglue in the red seals and refitted the tb, and set my boost down to 0.6bar so it doesnt leak so much while I wait for the new tb I've ordered. but when I change tb's and take the one with a leak out I can take som macro pictures of it. Im hoping the new tb come in the mail today or monday.

The infamous h2k - Hey mister, i seen your Dubai vids on uTube, you guys are using up all our stocks of parts dammit! :D Get your grindy grindy on, rip the seals out, and source replacements! Jesus, you "no tax" guys are wiping us up!!!

... jk - kinda

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...