Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls.

R33, exhaust, pod. no other mods.

I noticed recently that the my stock boost doesnt seem to jump up a couple of psi after 4500rpm.

It used to go from 6-7psi (low) to 8-9psi (after~4.5k).

Today and yesterday i noticed it sitting on about 7psi the whole way to 6k.

Even though the car is warmed up and has done at least 2-3km by the time i tried this, is the ecu perhaps holding back till the car is alot warmer? could that be it?

Also, a while ago i tried the high boost mod, by earthing the solenoid. it freaked out, spiked to 14psi, still dunno why, but i'm sure it was all good after i put it back to standard. Could that be the cause.

Will a bleed valve set to desired boost (9psi) resolve this problem?

Any thoughts, or insight appreciated.

I'd say your solenoid isn't working correctly..

Hence it's sitting on 7psi.. and not 8/9psi..

Easier just to get a bleed valve for $30

ECU won't give a hoot whether your car is cold or warm.. it just triggers - >4,500 - open solenoid..

You can test it as I believe you should be able to trip it to open or close the solenoid if you do the "full boost" thing manually by grounding the wire.. see if you can hear it or try blowing air thruogh it..

Edited by Links
ECU won't give a hoot whether your car is cold or warm.. it just triggers - >4,500 - open solenoid..

You can test it as I believe you should be able to trip it to open or close the solenoid if you do the "full boost" thing manually by grounding the wire.. see if you can hear it or try blowing air thruogh it..

i will try that. cheers.

i thought the ecu did give a hoot. i think it's the same on the Z32 300's. i may be mistaken.

But the R33 stock solanoid only gives you 7psi above 4500.

5psi under that.

Anyway, definately get that manual one off the SAU guy. It's tops!

yeah i've already bought one, just got it, not fitted yet.

5psi then 7psi. but with exhaust and pod, turbo breathes better, and gains ~2psi on stock boost. hence 7 to 9.

You can test it as I believe you should be able to trip it to open or close the solenoid if you do the "full boost" thing manually by grounding the wire.. see if you can hear it or try blowing air thruogh it..

do i need the engine running to try this, or just ignition on?

will give it a shot tomoro.

i grounded the solenoid, and i can clearly hear it clicking. so i assume it must be working.

i've had no time, or space(traffic) to give it a decent run and check psi +2.

will let u know how it goes.

when i first got my car (it was stock as a rock) and it wouldn't go above 5psi.... for the first day or 2. then i read about the solenoid and i hooked it up to a battery (had a spare one, didnt do the highmode mod) just to see if it clicked over. it did then after that it would go straight to 7psi on the gauge, but it did feel like it got extra power at 4500rpm.

but i run one of the turbotech controllers. they are much better than the turbosmart one i have. it (the turbosmart) holds boost and keeps the wastegate open on gearchanges so when you grab the next gear the boost goes to 0 then slowly climbs. shocked me the first time i did it. boosted up 1st and then second and it worked fine, then grabbed 3rd and at 4000rpm i had just reached 0 boost.

ok, took it for a nice big run on the fwy tonight. reaching 9spi after 4500, no prob.

was very apparent in 2nd and 3rd, less so in 4th, but then i had to back off a bit at that stage, speed limits and all :D

so it looks like the solenoid is ok, maybe grounding it manually to get the thing to switch did the trick.

when i get time, i'll get the turbotech boost controller on and set to 9psi.

did u guys get better spool times, more response, etc etc, after installing the turbotech (compared to the standard solenoid)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...