Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ant, it is all elementary...

A MAP (Manifold Air Pressure, also known some times as speed/density) system measures the pressure inside the intake, after the throttle body, and then adds fuel based on this amount of air. The air is not measured until it actually makes it into the throttle body.

A MAF (Mass Air Flow aka hot wire) systems measures the air coming into the engine at the near the beginning of the intake tract. A turbo system has several feet worth of intake plumbing. These cubic feet of air have been measured, and fuel has been added to match that amount of air.

A blow-off valve that vents to atmosphere on a system that uses a MAF causes problems with the Air/Fuel mixture, every time it is venting. Causing the cars to stumble/stutter/stall during gear changes. Following the explanation above, the blow off valve just vented all that pressure outside the intake tract. Your A/F ratio is now something like 7:1 or worse. So the car bogs from the way over-rich A/F ratio.

If you want a vent to atmosphere BOV on a MAF system, you will have to relocated the BOV further away from the throttle body or install a idling stabiliser which clamps the signal to prevent the engine stalling.

Vents to atmoshpere only.

You can buy recirculating clips for them from HKS USA, just not Japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...