Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the GT-V was first released in '99. yes, you are right in saying that it is basically a turbo spec car just with the NA RB25DE. the bayside blue was only available in the S2 release of the R34's and manual transmissions are only marginally more available in coupe from than sedan.

it's not a luxury sedan/coupe version.

mine cost me $18490 on road (complied/registered) and took just under 6 months to find - a grade 4, 70885K's, manual GT-V sedan.

do a search for GT-V and you should find a couple of other threads from earlier this year.

No, I had mine imported early this year. the benefits are aplenty of a base 25GT, turbo gear for one i.e. brakes, suspension, interior, front strut brace and the turbo cars 17" alloys. the 2nd benefit would be fuel economy. how many turbo cars get 630K's to a tank?

k, would i be right in saying a future turbo conversion to a gt-v would be very easy?

would be no different to doing a turbo conversion to any other R34

just that all the supporting systems are there - most importantly brakes, ready to take the increased power.

correct me if i'm wrong but isnt the suspension setup from the R34 GT25 the same as R34 GTT, same interior (minus boost gauge).

so all that you have extra is really the colour of the car and the brakes?

No, I had mine imported early this year. the benefits are aplenty of a base 25GT, turbo gear for one i.e. brakes, suspension, interior, front strut brace and the turbo cars 17" alloys. the 2nd benefit would be fuel economy. how many turbo cars get 630K's to a tank?

Depending on the car alot of turbo's can get 630ks to a tank.... but thats just me being a smart arse :)

My R34 GT-T Sedan - pretty much 90% h'wy driving manages to get 500k then the flue light comes on but there is always 15litres left in the tank so add another 100ks as it runs at 10 litres per hundred k's.

I come close to your 630k mark. :(

Drew.

You also get the HICAS and LSD from the GT-T in addition to the 4 pot brakes, 17 inch rims etc

Hicas and LSD seem to be available on most if not all skylines regardless of turbo or not. (actually the skylines seem like a fairly customisable car when in production, with alot of these being factory options)

just apart from brakes and rims, (and the obvious engine and gearing) i cant see any marked differences. not playing the GT-V down, just want to know what makes a GT-V a GT-V.

They're far more rare than standard 25GTs and generally command a small premium when buying them at auction. I was after one originally but I ended up settling for the 25GT as I didn't think it was worth it (additional price, extra searching)

To my knowledge the only differences are mechanical - brakes, LSD, HICAS and the 17" rims from factory (instead of options)

The standard 25GT has a strut brace, and as far as I know, the same suspension. The only difference in interior between the 3 are the turbos have guages sitting in the middle of the dash - everything else is identical.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...