Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is just the AFM your replacing. As said there is the wiring change it appears you have caterd for that.

Do you have an after market ECU that caters for the AFM being changed? (Power FC etc..)

Are you changing from an air box to a POD. If so do you have the brackets and extension pipe also?

Relatively easy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2512828
Share on other sites

Is just the AFM your replacing. As said there is the wiring change it appears you have caterd for that.

Do you have an after market ECU that caters for the AFM being changed? (Power FC etc..)

Are you changing from an air box to a POD. If so do you have the brackets and extension pipe also?

Relatively easy.

Yep i have the power fc, i thought i was replacing the standard afm wit hthe Z32, so whats this pipping i need?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2512844
Share on other sites

Your Power FC caters for the change in AFM's as one of the menu options.

Small extension pipe is only required if your changing from a an air box to a pod filter. Some do this when changing AFM's. As the Z32 AFM is a different size to your existing AFM the plumbing needs to different.

I bought an Apexi kit so all I needed came in the box. POD's, ruber Plumbing including ext pipes, wiring, brackets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2512955
Share on other sites

I'd guess your pod wont fit if you insert the Z32 due to size difference. That applies to a GTR. Cant be absolutely cert for a 33.

As you say - suck it an see. 5 minutes max to get an answer.

Good name change too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2512979
Share on other sites

R33 series II and Z32 are the same size 80mm. You should be able to just throw the old one over the shoulder and insert the new one without even looking up...........too easy.

As far as I know they are pretty much a direct replacement. But you will need to hook the four wires up in correct sequence. Let me know if you need a wire code over each one and I'll look at mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2513982
Share on other sites

I didn't read this till i got to work, I'll look and let you know.

My wires at the Z32 are all black, but across the top there is [from memory] 6 positions marked A,B,C,D,E,F and they join [from memory], black earth, a white/blue, a black/white, and another one I can't remember. Positions A and F are vacant. Please don't use this because none of it is in order, it IS NOT THE CODE. I'll check and get back to you as I've said.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2514870
Share on other sites

Try this:

B - Orange/Blue trace

C - Earth

D - White/Blue trace

E - Black/white trace

looking at back of the plug [so pod is on your left and trubo on your right] B is the first wire out, and E is the fourth wire out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2515715
Share on other sites

R33 series II and Z32 are the same size 80mm. You should be able to just throw the old one over the shoulder and insert the new one without even looking up...........too easy.

As far as I know they are pretty much a direct replacement. But you will need to hook the four wires up in correct sequence. Let me know if you need a wire code over each one and I'll look at mine.

:( My bad - know mine were 65mm. 33's got it easy then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135084-fitting-afm/#findComment-2521301
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...