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Can't Get Hicas Into Check Mode

CATKICKER
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CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, I have spend a LONG time tonight trying to get my car into HICAS check mode to be able to insert the second shim from the Tomei HICAS Lock Kit.

Is there any suggestions as to why it would be doing this? I have checked the connections in both the boot and in the engine bay and they are fine... The hicas light comes on when the ignition is at the on position (but not started).

Is there another way of doing it? If I were to unbolt the rear steering arm from the hub assembly, would that allow enough movement at the required point?

Thanks for your help!

Todd

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CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Guys, I have spend a LONG time tonight trying to get my car into HICAS check mode to be able to insert the second shim from the Tomei HICAS Lock Kit.

Is there any suggestions as to why it would be doing this? I have checked the connections in both the boot and in the engine bay and they are fine... The hicas light comes on when the ignition is at the on position (but not started).

Is there another way of doing it? If I were to unbolt the rear steering arm from the hub assembly, would that allow enough movement at the required point?

Thanks for your help!

Todd

Anyone?

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

You can install the shims without going into check mode but it means that you have to undo both sides of the rack.

It's a bit of a pain in the arse way of doing it, but when your hicas is already stuffed the bastard just doesn't want to play (atleast mine didn't) :laugh:

You have to remove one tie rod completely to get enough of a grip on the rack itself to crack the other side. Then you can just back that one off a bit, slip in the shim, tighten it up, and then put the other shim on before refitting the tie rod.

CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK, so I have managed to remove one side but due to how thin the inner bolt bit (on the side I have removed) is the spanner/shifter keeps slipping off (as it only has 2 sides).

I put the tie rod back on to put pressue on the spanner to stop it from coming but I have nearly rounded it!

Any suggestions? and don't say take it to a shop, I have already thought that! :) How funny is it when you are under your car thinking I would pay someone $50 to do this but when you have done it you are stoked you have saved yourself $50! ha ha ha

hicas1nk2.jpg

hicas2go9.jpg

hicas3qe9.jpg

Thanks,

Todd

R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

Just use a 12 volt power source on the connection on the round part, there are three tabs, one is left, one right and the middle I think is negative (dont quote me on that), When I did it I used sheilded aligator clips to work it out and no need at all for the hard ways, works a treat, the wheel alignment guy checked all my nuts and bolts as I left the rubber boots loose and he zipped tied them after.

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted (edited)

are u talking about the rack because on the r33 they are electric but on the 32 they are hydraulic, so cant use the power source?

EDIT

understand what they were talking about now! makes sense.

Edited by GTR1993
CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

DONE!!

OK this is what I did...

- Unplug the HICAS plug in the engine bay

- Strip a section of the wires either side of the center (earth) wire

- Plug the plug back in

- Start the car

- Get someone else under the car ready to slip in the shim (as it will move back in to place in a second or two...)

- Touch a wire to the + battery terminal and touch it on the bare wire on one of the stripped wires FOR A SECOND OR TWO... (one is left, the other right)

- If you got the correct wire, it shoud have moved and created enough of a gap for your mate to slip the shim in! If you got the worng one, you will need to turn the car off for a sec and try again as it wont work a second time...

- Once you have both in, tighten them up, unplug the plug and make sure you connect up the electric module correctly! (I got one wire around the wrong way and my bake lights turned on when ingition was on and the fuel pump when when I put my foot on the brake... - WHOOPS :nuke: )

Hope that helps!

Todd

Edited by CATKICKER
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

word...

for future reference, to get the other side off, notice in the bottom picture you posted there is a gold screw thingo. Unscrew this with a shifter and remove it, then the part of the rack that the tie rod screws into will be visable. You should be able to slip a 17mm oe spanner onto it to stop it turning when you undo the other tie rod

CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
  • Author
Posted
word...

for future reference, to get the other side off, notice in the bottom picture you posted there is a gold screw thingo. Unscrew this with a shifter and remove it, then the part of the rack that the tie rod screws into will be visable. You should be able to slip a 17mm oe spanner onto it to stop it turning when you undo the other tie rod

Well that makes sence!! grrr

Oh well, this works too :laugh:

Car is in getting alignment so will see how it goes!

Cheers,

Todd

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