Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

Ive just bought an R34, and the traction control light on the dashboard doesnt come on at all. Even when you operate the switch on the dashboard ( in front of your left knee).

I suppose the traction control prevents 1 wheel slipping more than the other in slippery conditions, and if you dont want the feature you turn it off via the switch on the dashboard, and a light comes on on the instrument panel.............So where can I start to repair this feature?

Im starting to think that a workshop manual is a necessity with this model, but at $650.00, it is a bit steep.

I have just bought a 1999 GTT ER34 as well ... waiting for Compliance to become available again before I import. But I have a translated Japanese manual I bought from www.importdrive.com.au ... it was about $50 I think... for those interested.

As far as I can tell from the book cars fitted with TCS have a button on the left hand side just under the steering wheel to turn the feature on or off (above your left knee as described already).

Also when you have the TCS on No light should be on in the dash. When you turn the system off there will however be a light confirming TCS OFF .... as far as I can tell TCS will do its job in the background when required.

Accrording to the manual when TCS actually kicks in under heavy acceleration the Slip light will flash indicating that the car may slip .... I suppose thats the only evidence of the TCS operating you'll see in the instrument panel.

One good way to check to see if its the globe or the light thats faulty is to check it when you are turning the car on ... as the car is turned on BOTH the TCS OFF light as well as the SLIP light should come on in the dash, after the car has started and if the system is working properly both lights should then go off. If either the TCS OFF light or SLIP light stay on afer starting the car this indictaes a fault in the system ... thats when you need to get it repaired.

Hope that helps

Originally posted by smb35673

Accrording to the manual when TCS actually kicks in under heavy acceleration the Slip light will flash indicating that the car may slip .....

YES, that is exactly what happens!

Btw TCS works by reducing engine power when it detects wheelspin to the driving wheels - in theory it should prevent you from 'burning out' your tyres too but in the wet it can still spin - I have tried it at heathcote whilst doing some 1/4 mile runs...

  • 10 months later...

Sorry to dig up this old post but I've just got a GT-T and noticed that with the TCS on sometimes under hard acceleration the car seems to shudder when accelerating. It starts to accelerate hard then drops revs then goes again then drops revs etc. Doesn't do it with TCS off. I imagine this is just TCS functioning correctly by limiting revs when wheelspin is detected? In this case it will be switched off from now on unless its wet.

Yeah, you got it correct NJR 34GTT, it only drop the rev to prevent the power going from the engine to the wheel so the computer disconnect the power to the wheel due to wheel spin.

So remember to turn off your TCS while you are racing :cheers:. In wet day it's very useful though hehehe.

About boost cut/fuel cut issue I can't really answer that :)

That's from me

Hmmm.... After reading a few other threads I have realised this could also be boost/fuel cut? Since its running 13psi which is supposedly very high for a 34 I suspect this is more likely the issue?

I run mine at 1 bar but I had to fit a fuel defender to be able to do that.Other wise car misses and starves of fuel.

It is a wonder your car is not missing and farting running at 13 lb or do you have a fuel defender fitted.

No running issues at all.

Basic mods on the engine, pretty sure it is the tcs.

as it is happening at quite low revs ~3000-3500rpm as opposed to the higher rpms usually experienced with boost/fuel cut.

As for the fuel defender I am not 100% sure but it was tuned to run as it is with the boost level and has been running it quite happily for over a year now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...