Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Ok so ive established that the Justjap JJR intercoolers are good and worth the money ($550 for a type 2 kit)

My goal is:

FMIC + Exhaust then crank up the boost.

Good idea?

OK lets say it is :laugh:

I completed my tax return today, should be getting about $900.

Car is almost stock, except for a POD and BOV.

My Dillema is, do I go for the exhaust or Intercooler or something else.

Can only afford one at this time.

The Exhaust i had my eye on was the X-Force 3.5" Turbo Back system ($799 for mld steel, $950 for stainless steel)

The Intercooler kit im also looking at is the JJR Type 2 Intercooler kit.

So if I could get peoples thoughts on:

*Zorst, FMIC or other

*What effects will each have on my car

*Any other sugestions you feel are relevant

Thanks guys :kiss:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/
Share on other sites

Whats this split dump buisness? (don't know what that means :laugh: )

Also would there be much difference between a 3" and a 3.5" system?

X-Force does both the 3" and 3.5" turbo back.

Im thinking X-Force mainly because I had an X-Force cat back on my previous car and it sounded great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2534076
Share on other sites

do a search on split dump pipe and you will see... the split dump seperates the wastegate gas then rejoins about 40cm down the dump... makes big difference to a single bell dump..

i wouldn't go anything bigger then 3" on the exhaust... unless ur running twin turbo or have 400+rw/kw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535035
Share on other sites

good way to spend $900 in my opinion:

- full turbo-back exhaust

- turbotech boost controller set to about 10psi

- oil and sparkies changed

- 1 hour on dyno to adjust the timing

you want a 3" exhaust.. no bigger, no smaller...

probalby the greatest mod that one could EVER do to a turbocharged vehicle...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535060
Share on other sites

turbo back exhaust, then front mount followed by boost and then powerfc it to get maxium bang for buck - but its gonna cost more than 900

Edit: X-force has a nice rumble to it, depends on what you want - quiet or loud.

Edited by emsta2003
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535127
Share on other sites

I want loud...ish.

As in, legal and not overly droney.

Does anyone know if the X-Force has this split dump that was mentioned? If not, any other reccomendations on a full turbo back system for $900 or less.

Also is it worth paying more for stainless steel? Ive heard mild steel is more than fine for many years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535767
Share on other sites

you can get the split dump front from batmbl (hes a member on these forums), and then just get the cat back from x-force and attach it to whatever cat you got running

thats going to work out much more expensive than the full x-force kit, and not give much of a power difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2536089
Share on other sites

Ok well theres the Xforce turbo back

$799 for Mild Steel

$950 for Stainless steel

Theres also the JJR Split dump for $125

Whats the difference between a 'front pipe' and a 'dump pipe' ??

Does a split dump make a big difference?

Again what sort of difference would I notice going from stock to the full Xforce turbo back

And what difference ontop of that would I notice if there was a split dump?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2536131
Share on other sites

no you wouldn't notice the difference between a split dump and a bell mouth dump.

the dump pipe is the pipe off the turbo. the front pipe goes from the dump pipe to the turbo. the x-force pipe is a 1 piece pipe. it has both in the front pipe.

the jjr dump pipe also requires a front pipe.

Edited by mad082
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2536294
Share on other sites

how can you dyno tune a stock ecu though? didn't think there would be much gain to be had.

i didn't sasy "dyno tune" i said time on the dyno to adjust timing

a dyno is just rollers so that the car can be driven as on the street but still monitored (eg listening for pinging)

with the car strapped to the dyno the mechanic can see how the engine runs (eg is it making the right amount of power?) and adjust the CAS to change the base timing (give it more power!)

this usually costs around $100-110 depending on the workshop and is highly recommended

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2537336
Share on other sites

i agree with mad082. get an x-force turbo back system, get a bleed valve and set it to 8-9psi, maybe even 10. the standard side mount shud support this, but if u want to be more safe and economical, buy a gtt side mount. after this u shud pick up at least 20-30kws at the wheels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2537999
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...