Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Ok so ive established that the Justjap JJR intercoolers are good and worth the money ($550 for a type 2 kit)

My goal is:

FMIC + Exhaust then crank up the boost.

Good idea?

OK lets say it is :laugh:

I completed my tax return today, should be getting about $900.

Car is almost stock, except for a POD and BOV.

My Dillema is, do I go for the exhaust or Intercooler or something else.

Can only afford one at this time.

The Exhaust i had my eye on was the X-Force 3.5" Turbo Back system ($799 for mld steel, $950 for stainless steel)

The Intercooler kit im also looking at is the JJR Type 2 Intercooler kit.

So if I could get peoples thoughts on:

*Zorst, FMIC or other

*What effects will each have on my car

*Any other sugestions you feel are relevant

Thanks guys :kiss:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/
Share on other sites

Whats this split dump buisness? (don't know what that means :laugh: )

Also would there be much difference between a 3" and a 3.5" system?

X-Force does both the 3" and 3.5" turbo back.

Im thinking X-Force mainly because I had an X-Force cat back on my previous car and it sounded great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2534076
Share on other sites

do a search on split dump pipe and you will see... the split dump seperates the wastegate gas then rejoins about 40cm down the dump... makes big difference to a single bell dump..

i wouldn't go anything bigger then 3" on the exhaust... unless ur running twin turbo or have 400+rw/kw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535035
Share on other sites

good way to spend $900 in my opinion:

- full turbo-back exhaust

- turbotech boost controller set to about 10psi

- oil and sparkies changed

- 1 hour on dyno to adjust the timing

you want a 3" exhaust.. no bigger, no smaller...

probalby the greatest mod that one could EVER do to a turbocharged vehicle...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535060
Share on other sites

turbo back exhaust, then front mount followed by boost and then powerfc it to get maxium bang for buck - but its gonna cost more than 900

Edit: X-force has a nice rumble to it, depends on what you want - quiet or loud.

Edited by emsta2003
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535127
Share on other sites

I want loud...ish.

As in, legal and not overly droney.

Does anyone know if the X-Force has this split dump that was mentioned? If not, any other reccomendations on a full turbo back system for $900 or less.

Also is it worth paying more for stainless steel? Ive heard mild steel is more than fine for many years.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2535767
Share on other sites

you can get the split dump front from batmbl (hes a member on these forums), and then just get the cat back from x-force and attach it to whatever cat you got running

thats going to work out much more expensive than the full x-force kit, and not give much of a power difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2536089
Share on other sites

Ok well theres the Xforce turbo back

$799 for Mild Steel

$950 for Stainless steel

Theres also the JJR Split dump for $125

Whats the difference between a 'front pipe' and a 'dump pipe' ??

Does a split dump make a big difference?

Again what sort of difference would I notice going from stock to the full Xforce turbo back

And what difference ontop of that would I notice if there was a split dump?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2536131
Share on other sites

no you wouldn't notice the difference between a split dump and a bell mouth dump.

the dump pipe is the pipe off the turbo. the front pipe goes from the dump pipe to the turbo. the x-force pipe is a 1 piece pipe. it has both in the front pipe.

the jjr dump pipe also requires a front pipe.

Edited by mad082
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2536294
Share on other sites

how can you dyno tune a stock ecu though? didn't think there would be much gain to be had.

i didn't sasy "dyno tune" i said time on the dyno to adjust timing

a dyno is just rollers so that the car can be driven as on the street but still monitored (eg listening for pinging)

with the car strapped to the dyno the mechanic can see how the engine runs (eg is it making the right amount of power?) and adjust the CAS to change the base timing (give it more power!)

this usually costs around $100-110 depending on the workshop and is highly recommended

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2537336
Share on other sites

i agree with mad082. get an x-force turbo back system, get a bleed valve and set it to 8-9psi, maybe even 10. the standard side mount shud support this, but if u want to be more safe and economical, buy a gtt side mount. after this u shud pick up at least 20-30kws at the wheels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136284-dilema/#findComment-2537999
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...