Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im after buying an exhaust , with a cannon . if im after a quiet exhuast , what am i looking at getting , ?

is it the bigger the tip on the cannon , the quiter it will be , or is it the other way around?

some one help i want to go and buy one soon . dont want a noisy zippy sounding car , just a growl on idol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136721-exhaust-tip-size/
Share on other sites

if you are after a quieter exhaust, get an oval muffler not a cannon. or if you must have a nice ricey cannon get one with a big body, and small hole. this maximises the amount of noise that can be reduced, but also reduces air flow.

im after buying an exhaust , with a cannon . if im after a quiet exhuast , what am i looking at getting , ?

is it the bigger the tip on the cannon , the quiter it will be , or is it the other way around?

some one help i want to go and buy one soon . dont want a noisy zippy sounding car , just a growl on idol.

Hey mate,

well if your after quiet then a cannon isnt the way to go....

i will attach a pic of mine dunno the brand, but its quiet as on idle sounds deep the way an rb should be, but produces good power, on boost its not gonna matter what you get its goin to be noisy. i hope this helps you in some way.

CIMG0113.jpg

exhausts sound different on different cars..

if you're after a quiet exhaust then basically you want to look as the muffler and resonator

muffler: the biggest body you can get with the smallest inlet/outlet that you need to match the rest of the system

resonator: as above, but you want to get a big one again.. don't forget the resonator or your eardrums will cross you off their cristmas card list

sinista , i like the look of yours and how much are we talking when boost kicks in ? as far as noise?

it wouldnt be as loud as a cannon you see on most of those little civics n shit that sound so loud n zippy all throughout gear changes ,

but yeah where do you recon i could pick up a muffler like yours ,

Hey mate,

well its not really really loud like a cannon but makes a good sound, look at it this way i wouldnt get pulled up for it bein too loud but it certainly doesnt dull power or sound like s*#t lol. and it doesnt sound zippy at all, never heard an rb that has really. best place maybe try a muffler shop, or keep your eye out on here for one, i bought mine off here from a member.

would a cannon sound quieter on a skyline compared to a non turboed car?

anyway im thinking of going an checking one of those that you have , but do you have an sort of idea what that is called ,

also how much do you recon im looking at getting a full exhaust? , would it be beneficial getting a bigger dump pipe?

cannons are pretty loud there not whiney like lancers etc there loud and fierce. full exhaust depends on what you buy and where from really, and yeh it would be benificial getting a bigger dump, but i mean if you can only afford a cat back at the moment then do that. i have no idae what my muffler is called, most muffler shops have a catalogue book, also if you explain your requirements then they may be able to help you.

what do you think of this ,

i got quoted at at advan performance, for a cat back , with cannon for $900 , excluding install . too costly

iv been lookin on ebay and im interested in this.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/r33-GTS-t-GTR-NISSA...1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem

do you recon any of them are worth my while ,

Ive got a 3" system with high flow cat and a $100 cheapo cannon. It sounds really nice at idle and full load, has that fantastic skylne roar. It is quite loud though, definately not legal but it doesnt drone like those commodores that would give you a headache driving everyday either.

Id recommend if you want quiet and decent flow 3" with a big resonator and as said above, the biggest bodied muffler you can find, a 2.5" outlet wouldnt affect flow too badly. Something like sinistagtst has would be perfect, they look much nicer then a cannon as well.

$900 for a new cat back and you reckon its too expensive

I swear, some people shouldnt own nice cars - dont ruin your car by putting cheap crap on it

If you cannot afford new, there are some excellent 2nd had systems around, quality systems that work and sound great.

Alot of people will argue, but I dont give a shit, I see so many cars nowadays with cheapo exhausts/wheels/etc - and it turns what could be a nice car into a bucket of crap

If you cant afford to do mods well, dont do em at all - otherwise you will just de-value your car.

If you want a quiet exhaust (well relatively) the Nismo 80mm with a centre muffler, and oval resonator on the back is quiet, not sure what model sorry.

Otherwise, find a nice flowing exhaust, and add resonators until you get the sound you want.

But please, dont fark up a good car by putting crap on it. (and cheap stuff off e-bay is 99% garbage)

the first ebay exhaust has no centre muffler so it will be louder than most others.

the second ebay exhaust you posted is an x-force, and it is turbo back. it is a good price too. it won't be legal (but then most skyline exhausts aren't) noise wise, but will sound good. i have the 3.5" version and it sounds cool.

as for the muffler, there are a few choices in oval mufflers. lukey make a 3" 'megaflow' which is a centre-off centre muffler so it flows well as well as taking noise out, as well as a few others. also x-force do some oval mufflers as well.

otherwise try to get a jasma muffler. the best of the jasma mufflers split into 2 inside the muffler then join back up just before the tip. the sound very nice, and are very quiet. i've been in 2 r33's with them and they are extremely quiet, but growl nicely. they are quieter than the jasma muffler that is just a straight through oval.

the first ebay exhaust has no centre muffler so it will be louder than most others.

the second ebay exhaust you posted is an x-force, and it is turbo back. it is a good price too. it won't be legal (but then most skyline exhausts aren't) noise wise, but will sound good. i have the 3.5" version and it sounds cool.

as for the muffler, there are a few choices in oval mufflers. lukey make a 3" 'megaflow' which is a centre-off centre muffler so it flows well as well as taking noise out, as well as a few others. also x-force do some oval mufflers as well.

otherwise try to get a jasma muffler. the best of the jasma mufflers split into 2 inside the muffler then join back up just before the tip. the sound very nice, and are very quiet. i've been in 2 r33's with them and they are extremely quiet, but growl nicely. they are quieter than the jasma muffler that is just a straight through oval.

My muffler is the same that you are describing here, splits in two and rejoins as i said i wouldnt get pulled up for noise but it sounds nice as.

a cannon would be heaps louder on a lancer than a skyline, my civic has a 2" sports exhaust no cannon and is bloody loud, where as my skyline on idle has a nice note, and only untill ur floggin it it starts to roar, but its hard to tell coz the screamer pipe is alot louder

but yeh cannons on N/A cars are wrong IMO

ben...

the first ebay exhaust has no centre muffler so it will be louder than most others.

the second ebay exhaust you posted is an x-force, and it is turbo back. it is a good price too. it won't be legal (but then most skyline exhausts aren't) noise wise, but will sound good. i have the 3.5" version and it sounds cool.

as for the muffler, there are a few choices in oval mufflers. lukey make a 3" 'megaflow' which is a centre-off centre muffler so it flows well as well as taking noise out, as well as a few others. also x-force do some oval mufflers as well.

otherwise try to get a jasma muffler. the best of the jasma mufflers split into 2 inside the muffler then join back up just before the tip. the sound very nice, and are very quiet. i've been in 2 r33's with them and they are extremely quiet, but growl nicely. they are quieter than the jasma muffler that is just a straight through oval.

I was quoted around 1200 for a full stianless x force fitted like that ebay one (for a stock R33). Sounds like a good price? Does anyone know if this system is droney at all?

Im not really worried about it being loud, but cant stand that drone that some cars have! and i havent really heard many liner exhuasts to compare to.

...What turbo back system do you guys reccomend for a good deep throaty sound, around or a little above the legal limit?

Any good exhaust places in Sydney?

Any exhaust place can knock up a 3inch exhaust and tailor it to how loud u want it

I just got mine done (cat back) for $400 with an oval muffler with twin tips - its loud, but if u want it quieter they can put a resonator on it to quieten it down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...