Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im after buying an exhaust , with a cannon . if im after a quiet exhuast , what am i looking at getting , ?

is it the bigger the tip on the cannon , the quiter it will be , or is it the other way around?

some one help i want to go and buy one soon . dont want a noisy zippy sounding car , just a growl on idol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136721-exhaust-tip-size/
Share on other sites

if you are after a quieter exhaust, get an oval muffler not a cannon. or if you must have a nice ricey cannon get one with a big body, and small hole. this maximises the amount of noise that can be reduced, but also reduces air flow.

im after buying an exhaust , with a cannon . if im after a quiet exhuast , what am i looking at getting , ?

is it the bigger the tip on the cannon , the quiter it will be , or is it the other way around?

some one help i want to go and buy one soon . dont want a noisy zippy sounding car , just a growl on idol.

Hey mate,

well if your after quiet then a cannon isnt the way to go....

i will attach a pic of mine dunno the brand, but its quiet as on idle sounds deep the way an rb should be, but produces good power, on boost its not gonna matter what you get its goin to be noisy. i hope this helps you in some way.

CIMG0113.jpg

exhausts sound different on different cars..

if you're after a quiet exhaust then basically you want to look as the muffler and resonator

muffler: the biggest body you can get with the smallest inlet/outlet that you need to match the rest of the system

resonator: as above, but you want to get a big one again.. don't forget the resonator or your eardrums will cross you off their cristmas card list

sinista , i like the look of yours and how much are we talking when boost kicks in ? as far as noise?

it wouldnt be as loud as a cannon you see on most of those little civics n shit that sound so loud n zippy all throughout gear changes ,

but yeah where do you recon i could pick up a muffler like yours ,

Hey mate,

well its not really really loud like a cannon but makes a good sound, look at it this way i wouldnt get pulled up for it bein too loud but it certainly doesnt dull power or sound like s*#t lol. and it doesnt sound zippy at all, never heard an rb that has really. best place maybe try a muffler shop, or keep your eye out on here for one, i bought mine off here from a member.

would a cannon sound quieter on a skyline compared to a non turboed car?

anyway im thinking of going an checking one of those that you have , but do you have an sort of idea what that is called ,

also how much do you recon im looking at getting a full exhaust? , would it be beneficial getting a bigger dump pipe?

cannons are pretty loud there not whiney like lancers etc there loud and fierce. full exhaust depends on what you buy and where from really, and yeh it would be benificial getting a bigger dump, but i mean if you can only afford a cat back at the moment then do that. i have no idae what my muffler is called, most muffler shops have a catalogue book, also if you explain your requirements then they may be able to help you.

what do you think of this ,

i got quoted at at advan performance, for a cat back , with cannon for $900 , excluding install . too costly

iv been lookin on ebay and im interested in this.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/r33-GTS-t-GTR-NISSA...1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem

do you recon any of them are worth my while ,

Ive got a 3" system with high flow cat and a $100 cheapo cannon. It sounds really nice at idle and full load, has that fantastic skylne roar. It is quite loud though, definately not legal but it doesnt drone like those commodores that would give you a headache driving everyday either.

Id recommend if you want quiet and decent flow 3" with a big resonator and as said above, the biggest bodied muffler you can find, a 2.5" outlet wouldnt affect flow too badly. Something like sinistagtst has would be perfect, they look much nicer then a cannon as well.

$900 for a new cat back and you reckon its too expensive

I swear, some people shouldnt own nice cars - dont ruin your car by putting cheap crap on it

If you cannot afford new, there are some excellent 2nd had systems around, quality systems that work and sound great.

Alot of people will argue, but I dont give a shit, I see so many cars nowadays with cheapo exhausts/wheels/etc - and it turns what could be a nice car into a bucket of crap

If you cant afford to do mods well, dont do em at all - otherwise you will just de-value your car.

If you want a quiet exhaust (well relatively) the Nismo 80mm with a centre muffler, and oval resonator on the back is quiet, not sure what model sorry.

Otherwise, find a nice flowing exhaust, and add resonators until you get the sound you want.

But please, dont fark up a good car by putting crap on it. (and cheap stuff off e-bay is 99% garbage)

the first ebay exhaust has no centre muffler so it will be louder than most others.

the second ebay exhaust you posted is an x-force, and it is turbo back. it is a good price too. it won't be legal (but then most skyline exhausts aren't) noise wise, but will sound good. i have the 3.5" version and it sounds cool.

as for the muffler, there are a few choices in oval mufflers. lukey make a 3" 'megaflow' which is a centre-off centre muffler so it flows well as well as taking noise out, as well as a few others. also x-force do some oval mufflers as well.

otherwise try to get a jasma muffler. the best of the jasma mufflers split into 2 inside the muffler then join back up just before the tip. the sound very nice, and are very quiet. i've been in 2 r33's with them and they are extremely quiet, but growl nicely. they are quieter than the jasma muffler that is just a straight through oval.

the first ebay exhaust has no centre muffler so it will be louder than most others.

the second ebay exhaust you posted is an x-force, and it is turbo back. it is a good price too. it won't be legal (but then most skyline exhausts aren't) noise wise, but will sound good. i have the 3.5" version and it sounds cool.

as for the muffler, there are a few choices in oval mufflers. lukey make a 3" 'megaflow' which is a centre-off centre muffler so it flows well as well as taking noise out, as well as a few others. also x-force do some oval mufflers as well.

otherwise try to get a jasma muffler. the best of the jasma mufflers split into 2 inside the muffler then join back up just before the tip. the sound very nice, and are very quiet. i've been in 2 r33's with them and they are extremely quiet, but growl nicely. they are quieter than the jasma muffler that is just a straight through oval.

My muffler is the same that you are describing here, splits in two and rejoins as i said i wouldnt get pulled up for noise but it sounds nice as.

a cannon would be heaps louder on a lancer than a skyline, my civic has a 2" sports exhaust no cannon and is bloody loud, where as my skyline on idle has a nice note, and only untill ur floggin it it starts to roar, but its hard to tell coz the screamer pipe is alot louder

but yeh cannons on N/A cars are wrong IMO

ben...

the first ebay exhaust has no centre muffler so it will be louder than most others.

the second ebay exhaust you posted is an x-force, and it is turbo back. it is a good price too. it won't be legal (but then most skyline exhausts aren't) noise wise, but will sound good. i have the 3.5" version and it sounds cool.

as for the muffler, there are a few choices in oval mufflers. lukey make a 3" 'megaflow' which is a centre-off centre muffler so it flows well as well as taking noise out, as well as a few others. also x-force do some oval mufflers as well.

otherwise try to get a jasma muffler. the best of the jasma mufflers split into 2 inside the muffler then join back up just before the tip. the sound very nice, and are very quiet. i've been in 2 r33's with them and they are extremely quiet, but growl nicely. they are quieter than the jasma muffler that is just a straight through oval.

I was quoted around 1200 for a full stianless x force fitted like that ebay one (for a stock R33). Sounds like a good price? Does anyone know if this system is droney at all?

Im not really worried about it being loud, but cant stand that drone that some cars have! and i havent really heard many liner exhuasts to compare to.

...What turbo back system do you guys reccomend for a good deep throaty sound, around or a little above the legal limit?

Any good exhaust places in Sydney?

Any exhaust place can knock up a 3inch exhaust and tailor it to how loud u want it

I just got mine done (cat back) for $400 with an oval muffler with twin tips - its loud, but if u want it quieter they can put a resonator on it to quieten it down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...