Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks just after some advice here, I am struggling to figure this one out!

I recently installed a Blitz DSBC Spec S Single Solenoid boost controller on my car (R33 S2).

The car is standard with a 3" exhaust/ dump pipe & pod filter.

After setting the desired settings (NORMAL 0.5 bar HIGH 0.7 bar) I noticed the boost spikes dramatically (to approx 0.95 bar) during vigorous gear changes. The boost stabilizes a split second after a gear change has been made.

I have managed to reduce the severity of spiking by lowering the boost warning setting but this just leads to jerky power delivery as the boost controller tries to constantly correct boost during gear changes.

Strangely, when the boost controller is switched off this spiking still occurs.

How can this be cured?

This boost controller does NOT offer GAIN or boost response settings?

Any suggestions or help is welcome. Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136871-spiking-like-crazy/
Share on other sites

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.

I am currently using the non standard Blitz Solenoid that was bundled with the boost controller.

The factory Nissan one has been removed. It's puzzling... When I turn the Blitz controller off it runs 0.5 bar (standard). However if the car is pushed harder i.e. quick gear change it will still spikes!

What are Blitz Boost controllers like as a general rule??? Are the problematic?

I am currently using the non standard Blitz Solenoid that was bundled with the boost controller.

The factory Nissan one has been removed. It's puzzling... When I turn the Blitz controller off it runs 0.5 bar (standard). However if the car is pushed harder i.e. quick gear change it will still spikes!

What are Blitz Boost controllers like as a general rule??? Are the problematic?

Hey guys, any more ideas with this one???

Surely someone else out there has had similar troubles.

Cheers.

just out of curiousity, where is the pressue hose run from? is it run from the bov hose is it? possibly done when fitting a front mount cooler.

i had spiking with my $22 controller after i did my cooler install. i had the hose hooked from the bov hose (like it shows in the instructions). this caused spiking on gear changes. i moved the hose to the 'hot' cooler pipe (took the nipple off the old cooler pipe and stuck it on the hot pipe). this solved my problem.

just out of curiousity, where is the pressue hose run from? is it run from the bov hose is it? possibly done when fitting a front mount cooler.

i had spiking with my $22 controller after i did my cooler install. i had the hose hooked from the bov hose (like it shows in the instructions). this caused spiking on gear changes. i moved the hose to the 'hot' cooler pipe (took the nipple off the old cooler pipe and stuck it on the hot pipe). this solved my problem.

The boost controller pressure hose taps into the fuel pressure regulator or the small vacuum hose coming out of the front of the plenum chamber.

I also have a mechanical boost gauge tapping into this same location. Do you think I should relocate the boost pressure line?

The pressure hose for the boost controller itself is small in diameter. Approximately the same size as the factory vacuum line exiting the back of the plenum... :laugh:

The boost controller pressure hose taps into the fuel pressure regulator or the small vacuum hose coming out of the front of the plenum chamber.

I also have a mechanical boost gauge tapping into this same location. Do you think I should relocate the boost pressure line?

The pressure hose for the boost controller itself is small in diameter. Approximately the same size as the factory vacuum line exiting the back of the plenum...

so the hose is rather long? i would relocate the pressure line to before the cooler. that way the hose will be nice and short. and it also won't suffer spiking due to cold nights.

you will find that companies like HKS have the wastegate line coming off the compressor side of the turbo.

so the hose is rather long? i would relocate the pressure line to before the cooler. that way the hose will be nice and short. and it also won't suffer spiking due to cold nights.

you will find that companies like HKS have the wastegate line coming off the compressor side of the turbo.

Cheers for the advice mate! I might have to redo the hose set up in this case...

umm i got the same boost controller.... and it definetly offers set/gain settings....

you sure u read the manual on howto set it up properly ?

sounds like you havnt entered the 'set' value correctly..

btw, lemi know if you need the manual for it (took me ages to find online)

This boost controller does NOT offer GAIN or boost response settings?

Any suggestions or help is welcome. Thanks guys!

i run mine on 12psi, has no spiking issues....

i think the limit is 16psi for the spec-s, not .7 bar

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.
i run mine on 12psi, has no spiking issues....

i think the limit is 16psi for the spec-s, not .7 bar

The Blitz I have only has a single solenoid (Spec S version).

The manual I have is in Japanese so its not much use to me :laugh:

My high boost setting is set for around 10psi but it spikes well above this (approx 13psi)

When I toggle the controller (left mode button) I don't have a gain function.

If you could post up the manual you are referring to that would be great!

Thanks

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

When I toggle the controller (left mode button) I don't have a gain function.

If you could post up the manual you are referring to that would be great!

Thanks

SBC_SPECS.pdf

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Ahh thanks mate, you are a gent :(

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Ahh thanks mate, you are a gent :(

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Hey Justin,

I have now found the GAIN setting thanks heaps!!! What GAIN setting do you suggest? What do you run?

I have a stock turbo, standard cooler & 3 inch exhaust.

i use 11 for my gain.

try something like that... yours is probably on the default setting of like 30 or something >_<

Hey Justin,

I have now found the GAIN setting thanks heaps!!! What GAIN setting do you suggest? What do you run?

I have a stock turbo, standard cooler & 3 inch exhaust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
    • As above, replace as many as you can afford. If anything, due to old age.
    • Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
×
×
  • Create New...