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chopobo, you don't need to remove the kickplate or go near the ecu on the passengers side. here is a copy and paste from the skylines faq:

"Just up above the fuse panel inside the car is the diagnostics connector

Turn ignition on, short the two terminals for 2 seconds then remove

The ECU will then be in diag mode.

Shorting two of the pins for two seconds puts the ECU into diag mode, when it is put back out of diag mode it also re-sets the ECU, Dak has wired a switch up to this connector which makes it a lot easier.

Here is a picture of the R32 / R33 diagnostic connector. The pins to bridge are marked X

|O|OO|OO|OO|

|X|XO|OO|OO|

R33 Connector:

You can see the connector if you take the cover off the fuse box, the connector is mounted on a small bracket pointing down"

I just use a paper clip to reset it. Personally i don't notice any difference at all after a reset. Do a search on the forums, theres been a few threads on it.

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  • 1 year later...
ah icic

oh and i can't seem to find the visual led display on the ecu

i manage to remove the kick plate(a big bitch of a job cos it feels like you almost break the damn thing)

and i pulled out the ecu

and only thing i see on it is the lil idle control thingy and next to it a small oval hole with clear film covering it. is that supposed to be the led display? cos i dun see any lights showing. or is it the leds inside the box? do i have to take apart the plates cos that can be a bitch with the loom cable in the way.

The lights don't flash all the time

You need to turn to dial clockwise all the way......then wait about 2 seconds....then turn the dial back anti-clockwise....then the lights should start flashing through the clear window.

Hope this clears up your question

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Out of all these methos none of them seem to work..

The closest thing i found was..

Disconenct the battery - dont bother putting your foot on the break because it does nothing, the break wont go in and you wont get any lights happening

Hrmm.. this is quiet interesting.. I have been told that to do a ECU reset (at least for a R34 GTT), disconnecting the battery dont do crap this is due to something about an open circuit.

To reset the ECU someone has to actually "plug into" it to reset it and have been told that this cost ~$80 ?

I have read alot of articles, etc., but has yet seen a car in real life that the prescribed reset ECU procedure (by disconnecting battery) works.

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  • 4 weeks later...

just a word of warning for all you peoples resetting your ECU's...

ONLY disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal on the battery. Because when re-connecting the negative terminal chances of burning out an electric component is far less that the positive.

and yes, resetting the ECU does work (for me anyway - R32)

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Ok you told us it does something and you've showed us the plug..

but what do you do with it to reset the ecu?

It tells you near the start of this thread dude.

you need to short two of the pins... see the earlier posts..

wil..

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Correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm positive you can't adjust your timing with the ecu. ECU only control's a/f etc.... and the r33's ecu is a fixed thing, ie, can't be edited. So with that in mind an ecu reset shouldn't do anything with regards to resetting your timing.

wil..

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  • 1 month later...
Correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm positive you can't adjust your timing with the ecu. ECU only control's a/f etc.... and the r33's ecu is a fixed thing, ie, can't be edited. So with that in mind an ecu reset shouldn't do anything with regards to resetting your timing.

wil..

mmm ... i have read alot about ecu's ...

when u reset the ecu .. it will drop the timing .. back .. and step by step it will come to the right timing .. ( thats what i'v read in a jap site long time ago )

but it will give u the right timing at the end ... ( so its not a problem at all )

QuickR33Melb

i think u'v reset it on the dyno and test it ... so it didnt reach the right timing yet ... !! i donno ..this is strang !!

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  • 9 months later...

i resetted my ecu everytime i had a bolt on upgrade e.g. filter, sparkies, fmic, full exhaust etc.. and made a big diff ..

all i did was disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and turned on every single thing i could think of e.g. lights, rear demister (wit ignition key to start), hold down the horn button, pressed down the brake pedal etc ... then after 30mins i plugged in the negative cable again and start the car with full continuous x3 revs to constant 3500rpm then gradually to 7000rpm ....then x2 full revs from 0-7000rpm ..

after that i took the car for a hard run and the car runs hard and quite.

try it outz

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Bugger me if i'm wrong.. i have a r33 and i couldnt find that damn plug!?!?!

Don't worry bro.....me neither!!

I just unplug the battery, (open the circuit), and if there is an E2 or Eprom that stores the 'memory' we're trying to reset....then it's pointless too.

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Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes definitely clears the error codes.

I did it on the weekend. I had 2 error codes, did a reset and they were gone.

After the reset I took the car for a bit of a "test" drive and checked for the error codes and it was all OK.

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