Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Needed

micko32

By micko32,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

micko32 Apprentice

micko32

Posted
Posted

hey guys my 32 gtst is playing up sometimes not all the time when its cold its good but when its warmed up it will idle high and wont rev past 2500 but ive found that when it does this if i pull over and switch the car off for a minute or two then start it up again its fine ive checked cleaned and swaped the afm n its not that but if i disconnect the the plug on the aac valve the idle drops down a bit what do u guys think? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137166-help-needed/
Share on other sites
dished33 Explorer

dished33

Posted
Posted
hey guys my 32 gtst is playing up sometimes not all the time when its cold its good but when its warmed up it will idle high and wont rev past 2500 but ive found that when it does this if i pull over and switch the car off for a minute or two then start it up again its fine ive checked cleaned and swaped the afm n its not that but if i disconnect the the plug on the aac valve the idle drops down a bit what do u guys think? cheers

Hey man that problem could be many things really but the one that covers many catagories is the coolant temp sensor, if its ok cold, then when warm if disconnecting the plug off the iac valve drops the high idle then that shows it is trying to compensate for the temp it is being supplied... probably saying the engine is cold still, which means the mixture will be very rich causing very hard to rev and idle is increased...

you should check the resistance as the engine warms up of the sensor and see if it changes... should decrease...

anyway thats just my thought it happens at work a bit.... good luck man :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137166-help-needed/#findComment-2550548
Share on other sites
dished33 Explorer

dished33

Posted
Posted
where is that sorry im a newbie

the temp sensor is on the coolant inlet to the head where the radiator hose connects, its the slighly bigger sensor... best way to check it is to pull it out, get it sitting in some water over the stove with a thermometer and using a multimeter check the resistance across the terminals of the sensor... you cant do it in the car unless you check it when its cold then when it warms up, but the plug must be disconnected and engine not running... if it doesnt change when its hot then it will have to be replaced

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137166-help-needed/#findComment-2563468
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...