Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey do anyof you guys know much about the ventilated disc brakes?

I see in the General section there is a ventilated disc brake group buy.

Will this be actually better for stopping or does it just mean that on hot days because it is ventilated it can stop as well as it foes at the moment but all the time.

I am just worried that in winter i might crash and ABS might not save my ass like it did once already last year... i want better stopping through winter... would it be a good idea for me to purchase these ventilated disc brakes?

Also on the pic that they have it shows a new brake clamp aswell... does that normally come in a package with the ventilated discs?

Link Below:

http://www.dba.com.au/5000series/5030.asp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13727-ventilated-disc-brakes/
Share on other sites

Are you referring to cross drilled rotors??? Or the way they distribute the heat between the inside of the rotor???

Edit: Ok to cover my knowledge of brakes ( I don't know what will help you that you don't already know though... )

Cross Drilled Brakes are very good for braking in single stop scenarios. They pull you up the quickest but you cant repeatably heavy brake on them or they have a tendancy to crack the rotor.

Slotted: These I believe are the best choice for modded street cars ... They give good stooping power and can take repeated heavy braking much much better than cross drills.

As for the centre of the rotor the new Kangaroo Paw technology apparantly distributes the heat build up much more effeciantly than the previous design and if availabe ( Not all rotors have been changed over yet ) are the better option.

Unless you buy some form of package deal I thought you just purchased the rotors seperately to any calipers and such???

Feel free to now correct and ridicule me :)

Dan,

Ventialated disk brakes allow primarily for the removal of heat, via transfer from the metal to the air. This is different to slotted or cross-drilled brakes. If your after a decent brake upgrade then either get some R33 GTR disks, or purchase something from DBA.

See'ya:burnout:

Yeah if you are thinking new rotors I would look at DBA for sure... Ask DBASteve which is best for your car....

I have spoken to him recently and the DBA 963 seemed to be the best option. Theses are slotted rotors with the Kangaroo Paw technology.... The only problem is they are only just completing the machining of the disks and such so they are difficult to get.

They will be my future disks anyways... :)

Would these be a good buy though? Do you think this would increase my stopping power?

I think about $187 for each one, i thought that might be a good deal but don't want them if they won't better my stopping, there won't be too much heat being generated as i don't really do much track work...

Hmmm I guess it depends on your driving style.... I know I could use the better rotors as even on the SAU cruises I must build up huge amounts of heat from my "Spirited driving"

Do you work your car hard often or is it more of a cruizen mobile??? :)

Originally posted by MrGTST

Hmmm I guess it depends on your driving style.... I know I could use the better rotors as even on the SAU cruises I must build up huge amounts of heat from my "Spirited driving"

Do you work your car hard often or is it more of a cruizen mobile??? :)

Well it's more of a cruisen mobile but last winter whilst cruisen quite a few times when traffic were ever so polite so stop spartically in front of me i though.... hmmm maybe my stopping could be upgraded for next winter... now with more than 100 Killowatts i do feel that i should look at this!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...